4 Types of Dog Leashes

Leashes, or leads, are essential tools for every dog owner. Leashes are used in conjunction with collars for training and everyday purposes. Use this information to find the best leash for your dog.

Standard Leashes

Photo © Jenna Stregowski

Standard leashes are intended for basic training and everyday use. Typically available in lengths from 4-8 feet, the 6 foot length is ideal for most dogs. Standard leashes are available in leather, nylon and similar materials. Some standard leashes are made with chain, which can be useful for dogs who try to chew the leash.

Retractable Leashes

Photo © Jenna Stregowski

Retractable leashes contain a nylon band or cord of up to 26 feet that retracts into a plastic case with a handle. The leash can lock in place at any length. The mechanism is similar to that of a measuring tape. Retractable leashes can be helpful if you want to allow your dog to wander away from you without letting your dog off-leash. These leashes should only be used after your dog has been trained to walk on a regular leash. Otherwise, you will train your dog that it is permissible to pull on the leash. Do not let your dog out of your sight when on the leash, especially at longer lengths. The leash could become tangled or your dog could get into a hazardous situation.

Adjustable Leashes

Photo © Jenna Stregowski

Adjustable leashes are similar to standard leashes, but they have several loops along the leash that allow a clasp to shorten or lengthen the leash. The various sizes can be useful during training. Adjustable leashes can make it easy to briefly tether your dog to a pole or similar object. Your dog should not be left unattended white tethered.

Martingale Leads

Photo courtesy of The Leash Connection

Martingale leads are all-in-one collars and leashes. They operate in a similar way as the Martingale collars. Commonly used for toy breeds in the show ring, the collar portion slips over the head and tightens when the lead is pulled. A plastic tube slides down the lead to keep the collar in place. Larger versions are available for larger dogs.

Update from the Whelping Box: Week Five

Once puppies are born, the week to week development can vary but most newborns stick to the same growing pattern. Unlike human babies, puppies develop quickly within their first two months of life and the changes are so quick that you may miss an important milestone. From the first week to the eighth, you are going see your tiny bundles of joy go from wriggling whimpers to full-blown walking balls of energy.

Here’s our report from the Whelping Box:

We were born April 21st, 2012 and we will be ready to go to our “forever homes” in late June. There are 4 boys and 2 girls and we all love snuggling together in a big “puppy pile.” Our names are Aiden, Brogan, Cora, Finn, Liam, and Eireann. Eireann, Finn, Brogan and Cora are already “spoken for,” but we boys are waiting for our “forever homes.” We’re all FIVE WEEKS OLD now. You might think we haven’t been doing much for these first thirty-five days of our lives, but we’ve been quite busy. Just look!

Here it is, Day 35, and just look at what’s happened:

During the fifth week, the puppies will be getting regular supplemental feedings. Small dry kibble is being introduced to wean from an all-wet diet. This is the preparation stage for full weaning of the pups from their mother by the end of the fifth week. We are taking the time to interact with the puppies individually so that the young pups begin their socialization training with humans and not just with their littermates.

Puppy Development: Stage 3

Week 4 to week 12 typically comprise the third stage of puppy development. During this stage, the senses begin to mature and socialization becomes an important part of the puppy’s life. The puppies are interacting with other dogs and with people during this key phase.

For the first few weeks of this phase, it’s likely that the only other dogs the puppies will have access to are his mother and littermates. The puppies’ normal body temperature is approximately 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and their systems will begin regulating that temperature naturally. Additionally, the instinct to squat will take over and external stimulation will no longer be required for the puppies to move their bowels.

Early socialization will manifest as a basic kind of play with the puppy’s littermates – wrestling and a reserved play-biting known as “inhibited bite.” This is the way in which the puppy will begin to learn about social structure and pack ranking. Rules, boundaries, and limitations set by his mother begin to take shape. Physical co-ordination and eyesight are still not fully developed, but the puppy’s mobility will have progressed beyond wiggling, rolling, and flopping around.

Weeks 5 through 7 are the time for the puppies to begin their socialization with people. Their sense of hearing is well-developed enough to allow command conditioning using positive reinforcement, as well as name recognition. The puppies are responding when they are being called; which makes it so much easier to keep them all in line.

Well that is all for this week! Stay tuned for next week’s report and check out the pictures below!

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How to Train Your Dog to Wave

Training a dog to lift his paw to wave hello or good-bye is not too difficult. Your friends are sure to be impressed by this cool dog trick!

What You Need

To train a dog to wave, all you need is your dog and some yummy dog treats. You should also have your clicker handy if you are using clicker training.

Here’s How to Do It

1. Before you start training a dog to wave, he should first know how to shake paws. Waving is built from what he already knows how to do when he shakes. If he hasn’t learned to shake yet, you should go back and work on this skill with your dog.
2. Give your dog the command “shake.” When he lifts his paw to shake your hand, move your hand up slightly so he has to move his paw up a bit to get to your hand.
3. When your dog moves his paw up farther than he would to shake, click your clicker or tell him “good,” and give him a treat.
4. Repeat this action a few times, each time moving your hand up a little higher until your dog is raising his paw above his head.
5. Once your dog has been putting his paw up several times in a row, give the command “shake,” and as soon as your dog starts reaching his paw out to you, give the command “wave” (or you can use the command “say hello” or “wave bye”) and again follow steps 2-4.
6. Repeat this several times until your dog is consistenly raising his paw. After a number of repetitions, stop using the shake command, and only give the command “wave.”
7. Most dogs quickly learn to raise their paw over their head on command. Once your dog is doing it consistently doing it on command, you can begin to select for the best waves. Begin to only give him treats when his paw is over his head and moving up and down a bit in a waving motion.
8. Practice the wave command for a few minutes at time, two or three times each day. Your dog will quickly be impressing your friends as he greets them with a wave hello!

Capturing the Wave

If you are using a clicker to train a dog, you may be able to teach your dog to wave by capturing the behavior. Many dogs use their paws to get your attention. You can capture this behavior with your clicker, and use it to teach your dog to wave. Here’s how to do it:

1. Keep your clicker and some treats handy, and the next time your dog paws at you, click your clicker and give him a treat.
2. Repeat this several times, each time your dog raises his paw to get your attention.
3. A dog who is used to clicker training, will soon begin offering behaviors to try to get a treat. Continue clicking and giving treats each time he raises his paw.
4. Next, add the command “wave.” Say the command and wait. Each time your dog raises his paw, click and treat. Your dog will soon be offering the behavior more quickly after you give the command.
5. Once your dog is consistently waving on command, you can begin to only click and treat for the behaviors which look the most like a wave.
6. As in the above steps, practice the wave command several times each day for short training sessions.

Puppy Training and Socialization

Photo by Amanda Edwards/Getty Images

Socialization is the first step in raising a well-behaved dog. During the first weeks of their lives, puppies go through a critical period of development. When a puppy is exposed to new people, places, and situations in a positive way during this period, there’s a good chance he’ll be calm and accepting when he experiences them again later in life.

What Is Socialization?

Socialization is just what it sounds like – socializing. Your puppy should meet and interact with as many types of people, animals, and environments as possible. By the time he reaches about 4 months old, your puppy should learn to accept being petted by strangers, meeting other dogs, being handled by a veterinarian or groomer, and meeting a wide variety of people.

When Should Socialization Take Place?

Puppy socialization should take place when your dog is between 8 and 16 weeks old. Because puppies have not received all their vaccinations, you should talk to your veterinarian about when it’s safe to expose your puppy to new people and places.

Why Is Socialization So Important?

Socializing your puppy helps him to become a happy, healthy, and well-behaved member of your family. Properly socialized puppies are less likely to develop behavior problems as they grow into adults. Dogs who don’t get early socialization may react with fear or aggression when they are exposed to new things. It is much easier to teach your puppy to accept new things now than it is to retrain him after bad habits develop.

How Should a Puppy Be Socialized?

Socialization should involve as many people and situations as possible. Introduce your puppy to a wide variety of people, including men, women, children of all ages, people in wheelchairs, men with beards, and people wearing all kinds of clothing (e.g., uniforms, sunglasses, rain coats and umbrellas, hats and gloves, etc.). Before your puppy has gotten all of his vaccinations, you can begin to socialize him by inviting people to your home to meet him.

Handling exercises are another important part of socializing. Think the ways your dog may be handled in his lifetime – a child could pull his tail, a veterinarian might need to restrain him, you may need to hold his feet to clip his nails. If you get your puppy used to being handled in a gentle manner now, you will be less likely to have trouble handling him when he has reached adulthood.

Once your veterinarian approves taking your puppy to new places, you can begin socializing him outside your home. This is a good time to get him used to riding in the car, meeting other dogs, visiting the groomer and pet supply store, and taking walks in your neighborhood.

Socialization should always be kept positive. Allow your puppy to approach new things in his own time. You can use treats and praise to encourage your puppy to approach unfamiliar people and objects. Never push your puppy past his comfort level or he may become fearful of the things you are trying to get him to accept.

Can a Dog Trainer Help With Socialization?

Puppy training classes are a great way to enhance your puppy’s socialization. Dog trainers usually refer to these classes as “Puppy Kindergarten.” They should touch on the usual concerns of the new puppy parent, like housetraining and curbing destructive behavior. A good puppy kindergarten will also help your puppy to get comfortable with new people and being handled. Your veterinarian or local animal shelter should be able to help you find a good puppy kindergarten class.

Puppy Update: 4 Weeks Old

The little ones are fine and thriving, and they are turning into real puppies now! They’re up on their feet, wagging their tales, seeing, hearing, playing with toys, romping, and chewing on each other (and biting each other’s ears, which hurts with those sharp puppy teeth).  They’re getting much more 1:1 time with us, apart from each other, and we’re beginning gentle redirection on things like puppy biting and jumping to which they are responding quite well (they are *so* eager to please!).

They’re still nursing, but we’ll slowly introduce them to solid food toward the end of this week with the goal of transitioning them completely by the time they’re six weeks old. They should be weaned by their six-week-old vet visit for check-ups and vaccines.

Just two days ago, on a sunny 65-degree day, we carried each outside to experience the feel of the sun and breeze and the sounds of planes overhead, wind chimes, and bird calls.  All were appropriately timid at first but seemed to relax and enjoy the adventure. They now love to romp around in the grass and follow us around.

Socialization: Four to Six Weeks

From four to six weeks, puppies continue to be influenced by their mother and littermates. They learn to play, gaining needed social skills from littermates, such as inhibited biting (biting to play, not to hurt). The puppies also learn the ins and outs of group structure and ranking within the group.  The puppies are being socialized with humans, have a variety of people interacting with them – young (with supervision) and old, male and female. House-training can begin as early as five weeks, when puppies will follow their mother through a dog door or can be taken out for elimination lessons. At approximately six weeks, puppies can begin in-home training.  His first collar and lead will be introduced, he will be encouraged to come using his name, and reward him with praise and treats. At this age, you can also start training puppies with positive reinforcement methods: using a clicker, praise, and rewards.

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Six Weeks to a Well-Trained Dog

Whether you are sharing your home with a new puppy or an adult dog, he is sure to benefit from training. If you’re unsure where to begin, the following schedule can help you get organized and start training a dog. For each week, there are some ideas of basic commands to work on, as well as some tips to prevent or modify behavior problems.

Week 1

• Sit: This week, work on teaching the dog to sit. Plan on spending about 5 minutes a few times each day working on the “sit” command.
• Introduce the Crate: If you haven’t already been using a crate, this is a good time to get your dog used to it. The crate is a wonderful tool to manage your dog’s behavior when you aren’t there to supervise. Take a little time each day this week to let your dog get used to the crate, and begin letting him sit in there for a few minutes at a time.
• Establish a Routine: Dogs thrive on routine. This week, take some time to create a schedule of mealtimes, playtime, and walks. Stick with it as closely as possible during the training weeks and beyond. This helps with housebreaking, as well as other common behavior issues.
• Invest in Toys: Do some shopping this week, and get a variety of interesting toys for your dog. Make sure to include some things such as Kong toys or Buster Cubes which provide some mental stimulation. Each week throughout this process, rotate the different toys so your dog always has something new and interesting to play with.

Week 2

• Down and Emergency Recall: This week, spend a few minutes several times each day working on the down command and teaching your dog the emergency recall.
• Crate Training: By this time, your dog be fairly comfortable in his crate. Start leaving him in his crate for longer periods of time, but no longer than a few hours at a stretch. Be sure to leave him with some fun and interesting toys. Continue using the crate throughout each week of training.
• Loose Leash Walk: You can also begin teaching your dog to walk on a loose leash. Plan on at least one short walk each day to practice this skill. This is a skill that you should continue working on through each week of the training.

Week 3

• Come and Leave It: The basic commands to work on this week are the “come” and “leave it” commands. Spend some time each day practicing these commands.
• Stop Jumping: This week you can also begin working on teaching your dog not to jump up. You can set aside time each day to practice, or you can wait until it comes up in your regular day-to-day activities (like when your dog jumps up to greet people coming in the door) to work on it.
• Review: Take 10 minutes at least 3 times this week to review the commands and behaviors you’ve already worked on.

Week 4

• Wait: This week, work on the “wait” command. You can practice this in regular training sessions, or you can wait for opportunities to crop up each day. Make sure your dog waits before going out doors or coming out of his crate.
• Go to Your Place: Begin working on teaching your dog to go to a specific place and lie down in your home. Some great times to practice having your dog lay calmly in his place is during mealtimes or when you’re sitting watching television or reading a book.

Week 5

• Drop It: In several short training sessions each day, teach your dog the “drop it” command.
• Stop Barking: Begin training your dog to be quiet by working on the “speak” and “quiet” commands. You can do this during training sessions or you can wait until your dog barks and use it as an opportunity to practice.

Week 6

• Pick a Trick: Now that your dog knows many basic commands, you can work on teaching him a trick, such as roll over or play dead.
• Heel: By now your dog probably has a pretty firm grasp on walking on a loose leash. If you would like a little more control during walks, you can now introduce the “heel” command.
• Review, Review, Review: Your dog should now be responding well to a number of commands, and some other behavior issues should have been addressed. This does not mean you’re done with training. Remember to practice and reinforce your dog’s training for the lifetime of your dog. The training will ensure that your dog is a happy and well-adjusted member of your family.

How to Manage Your Multi-Dog Household

Sometimes one just isn’t enough. Having one dog is great, but having more than one is fantastic! Full of doubled rewards and triple the challenges, a multi-dog home can have you pulling your hair out over the simplest of things. Many dog owners find that having more than one dog in the home makes their life complete, and certainly interesting.

1. The Meet and Greet

Photo courtesy of and © Neal

That first meeting between your established dog and the newcomer could set the tone for their entire relationship; good or bad. If it is at all possible, try to have them meet in a neutral setting, away from home. If you ae adopting from a shelter, see if you can bring your dog in to meet the potential new dog before signing for the adoption to see if they will accept each other.

Adding a Second (or Third) Dog

2. Two Puppies At Once

Photo courtesy of and © Cathy

I did this once, and I solemnly swear that I will never do it again unless I take leave of my senses completely. If you’re ready for the challenge though, here’s a few tips to help:

• Crate train. Crate them together when you aren’t available, but the crate is invaluable for getting one-on-one training time with each puppy. Crate one while you work with the other.
• Buy two of everything! Two Kongs, two leashes, and especially two beds/blankets. They may be amenable to sharing now, but that could change as they grow older and bigger.
• Use different colors for everything, even if they are different in looks and there’s no mistaking them for each other. Bruno gets the Yellow things, and Banana gets the brown things. It’s not for them; it’s for you.

3. One on One Time

Photo courtesy of and ©  Allison

For training, for affection. Every dog in your home needs to feel special, every day. Make the time to spend some one-on-one time with each of your dogs. They need the individual training sessions in order for it to take hold in their heads, and they need the attention from you without competition in order for you to establish yourself in their affections. Otherwise your two (or more) dogs will come to rely upon on each other, and you might be relegated to mere background noise. If you have two adults (or older kids), have one take the one dog out for a walk, while you train or play with the other, and then switch. Take turns with training, so that your dogs learn to listen to all the humans in your home, not just the head of the family.

4. Dog Fights

Photo © Krista Mifflin

It’s a fact: if you have more than one dog, you will have dogs fighting. Most of the fights between household dogs will not be serious fights, and over shortly after starting. The most common cause of these tussles is rank: the dogs will need to work out who comes first between them. Unless both dogs are uncommonly submissive, these types of dog fights are going to be inevitable.
Keep Them From Becoming Serious

• Neuter them. Rampaging hormones are a huge factor in dog aggressiveness, especially towards each other.
• Do your part to reinforce pack order: you first, then the other humans, then the dogs, in whichever order they have established.

Other Common Causes of Dog Fights

• Food
• Toys (have plenty!)
• “He looked at me funny!”
• Just for fun.

5. Reinforcing Pack Order

Once they’ve sorted themselves out, you’ll need to pay attention to which dog came out on top. Even if your favorite isn’t the leader, you’ll still need to do your part by putting the other dog first (after you and the other people in your home). Feed your dogs in order of rank, by setting the top dog’s bowl of food down first. Let him out the door first, and don’t quibble if he seems to monopolize your affections.

6. Feeding Times

You should feed both dogs at the same time of day, but still cater to the alpha dog of the two (or three), by putting his food down first. As long as both dogs eat the same the same food, and will finish their meal all at once, there shouldn’t be any problems. Dogs should always have their own food dish, but a communal water bucket is usually fine.
It may be necessary to feed the dogs in different areas of the home if:

• One dog finishes first and tries to eat the other dog’s food. This can lead to an overweight pooch rather quickly.
• They fight over the food.
• They eat different foods (ie: one eats an adult diet food, the other a puppy food).

7. Getting In The Door – Order Out of Chaos

Anybody that has more than one dog knows that most chaotic time is when you, the human, finally come home from wherever you have been the last ten years. Well, the way your dogs act sure make it seem like ten years. Bouncing, maybe barking, butt-wiggles, excited yipping noises and maybe even excited puddles. If you can get in the door and get your shoes off, it takes forever to settle the dogs down again.
Don’t reward the craziness. Walk in the door after an absence and ignore your dog until he or she has calmed down enough to sit properly and lavish praise upon her for doing so. If you can ignore the chaos when you come in, and refuse to acknowledge anything but a sitting dog, your dog will catch on very quickly.

The Transitional Period: 14-21 Days

In my last post, I briefly mentioned that the pups had moved from the Neonate Period of development into what’s called the Transitional Period: a short developmental stage of only one week that’s loaded with change and milestones.
Here’s what we can expect to see in the pups by the end of the week:

• Rapid improvement in their motor skills (standing, beginning steps, sitting, better control of their movement, etc.).
• Being able to eliminate on their own.
• Starting to move away from where they sleep to potty (it’s instinctive, and this not-pottying-where-they-sleep instinct is the foundation of housebreaking later on).
• Wider range of movement (will crawl and walk around more while beginning to explore)
• The beginning of real, voluntary tail-wagging.  )
• Showing more interest in their littermates (pawing at them, chewing on them)
• First teeth (these should erupt around Day 20)
• First hearing (their ears should unseal around Day 20 or 21, sometimes earlier). We’ll know their ears have unsealed with they begin to startle to loud noises.

And here’s what we’ll be doing during this important development stage:

• We’ll spend more 1:1 time with the pups, giving them individual interaction with humans and more socialization, but for only a few minutes at a time (they’re still quite young).
• We’ll also start putting them on different surfaces for one minute per day (probably when I need to move them out of the whelping box to clean it).
• Later in the week we’ll introduce them to a water bowl (they begin to “lap” during this stage as well).
• We’ll add bright colored objects and toys to the whelping box for their visual and sensory stimulation.
• We’ll “raise the drawbridge” (we’ll put up the side of the whelping box that currently rests open to allow Fiona to come and go).  The pups have already shown some interest in what’s outside of the box, so once they’re more active we’ll need to contain them (for their safety).
• Fiona will still be allowed to come and go with them as she pleases; she instinctively is already staying out of the whelping box for longer stretches of time. But we will give her more time apart from them.

We are now accepting puppy applications and deposits! Contact me at 1(307) 413-5892 or e-mail me at clancyaussiedoodles@hotmail.com. Thanks!

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Update from the Whelping Box: Week 3

Though I know well that the third week of a pup’s life is marked by huge milestones. It’s like they turn into puppies (as most people think of puppies) overnight.
Here it is, Day 21 or Week 3, and just look at what’s happened:

• Walking has become the preferred method of ambulation (instead of crawling).  Granted, it’s still a drunken-sailor walk, but they’re up on all fours!
• Elimination and voiding is now something they do on their own. Fiona is cleaning less; the humans are cleaning more.
• The pups get up from where they’re sleeping and waddle over to a different part of the whelping box to potty, then waddle back to the puppy pile. They’re instinctively pottying in places other than where they sleep.
• Their vision is becoming usable. When they “see” things now, they react appropriately with sniffs or puzzlement or growls or barks or pounces.
• They recognize each other (oh boy, litter mates!).
• They play with each other. Okay, so it doesn’t last very long, but they do “play” for short stretches.
• They wrassle. :O)
• They’re feeling secure with their humans, not just with Fiona.
• They can pant and lap.
• They have started to grow in (ouch! for Fiona) teeth!  Their baby teeth are just poking through their gums, and just like human babies, this is uncomfortable for them.  They’re beginning to feel the need to chew (look out world!)
• They can voluntarily sit, stand, roll over, scratch, paw, wag their tails, chew, investigate objects they “see” (still blurry, but visible), and are just beginning to climb.
• This morning, I noticed that the puppies might be responding to sound, so I suspect their ears may be starting to unseal.

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Q & A: Why Does Dog Urine Kill Grass?

Photo by Frank Gaglione/Getty Images

Question: Why does dog urine cause brown spots on grass?

Help! My dog’s urine is killing my lawn. Why does dog urine make the grass turn brown or yellow? How can I stop this? I love my dog but I would like a nice lawn too.

Answer: Grass burns from dog urine are a source of frustration for dog owners who take pride in a beautiful lawn. Brown or yellow spots of dead grass are unsightly, but some dog owners feel that it’s just part of living with dogs. In fact, there are ways to prevent grass burns from dog urine.While nitrogen is an essential component in healthy soil, high concentrations of it can cause grass to turn yellow or brown. Urine is naturally high in nitrogen and alone can cause grass burns. However, lawn fertilizer also contains nitrogen. An excess of either or a combination of urine and fertilizer may result in an overdose of nitrogen, thus “burning” the grass. Salts and other compounds in dog urine may also contribute to grass burn. In addition, highly acidic or alkaline urine may alter pH of the soil in that area of your yard, adversely affecting the grass there.

It may seem like female dog urine causes more trouble to the lawn than male dog urine. This is simply because most females tend to squat and urinate in one place, while many males lift the leg and “mark” upright objects in multiple locations. The composition of a dog’s urine does not vary that much between male and female dogs, especially when spayed or neutered.

There are a few ways to prevent brown or yellow spots on your lawn caused by dog urine. You can try more than one option at a time for maximum results. There is no guaranteed way to end urine spots in the yard, but the following methods might help stop grass burns caused by dog urine:

1. Train your dog to urinate in one area and plant a urine-resistant ground covering in that area. One great option for this is clover. You might also try creating a dog-friendly landscapein your entire yard.
2. Give your dog a supplement or food additive that is designed to neutralize the nitrogen in the urine. One example of this type of product is Naturvet Grass Saver (compare prices). As alway, ask your vet before starting any supplement. Additionally, never attempt to alter your dog’s urine pH unless specifically recommended by your vet.
3. Immediately after your dog urinates, use a garden hose to rinse off the area. You might also consider switching to a low-nitrogen fertilizer for your lawn (make sure it’s pet-safe too).

Remember that other animals might have access to your yard and their urine can cause lawn damage as well. A fence will keep out any dogs passing by, but cats and various wild animals are not so easy to stop. This may or may not explained continued brown or yellow spots in the yard after implementing the above recommendations.