Clancy Aussie Doodles

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Socializing Your New Puppy

IMG-20120530-01020It’s a big world out there…

The great big world seems even bigger to brand-new puppies. You can help your pup learn to be brave and friendly by proper socializing him to new people, places, and experiences.

Vaccinations
Although it is vital that you take your puppy out to experience the world, you must wait until he is fully vaccinated to get him out and about. There are lots of dangerous and even deadly diseases that your dog can pick up from other dogs, and even from the ground they walk on.

Safe Visits
Since your not-yet vaccinated puppy really shouldn’t go out into the world until he is vaccinated, you can bring a little of the world in to him. Invite friends, especially friends with well-behaved children, over to play nicely with your pup. These initial interactions with strangers will help to form your puppy’s future feelings about meeting people who aren’t family. Just make sure visitors wash their hands thoroughly before playing with your unvaccinated puppy. Also, make sure visitors leave their shoes by the door. Diseases like parvo or kennel cough can be carried in from the ground on people’s shoes.

Play, Play, Play
Spend LOTS of time playing with your puppy. This is your chance to cement your relationship with your pooch from day one. Show your dog you are calm, assertive, and loving from the very start and you’ll be in good shape. Remember to discourage any behavior you don’t want your dog to display from the very first time. Puppies nipping at your hands may seem harmless, but if you encourage it, or let it continue happen, you may end up with a nipping adult dog, and that isn’t so cute.

Rewards
Figure out what motivates your pup. Some pups are most motivated by food, some by toys, and others by affection. Once you know what really gets your pup excited, use it to praise him for calm, submissive behavior in every new situation. Give him lots and lots of verbal praise every time he approaches a new situation without fear.

Different People
Once your puppy is fully-vaccinated, take him out to lots of dog-friendly places, and introduce him to people. Make sure he gets to meet lots of different people. Try to let him meet men, women, tall people, short people, people with facial hair, and people with different colored skin. This will help your pup be friendly with strangers and avoid aggression out of fear.

Different Ages
Let your pup meet both adults and children. Children and adults generally have a very different manner around animals. Children tend to have less respect for boundaries; they tend to move more erratically, and are often louder.

Different Animals
It is a good idea to introduce your dog to different animals as well. Dogs who are made familiar with animals like cats, ferrets or rabbits as puppies tend to have less prey drive. This means they will be less likely to chase or attack the family bunny or the neighbor’s cat

Vet Visits
Help your dog get comfortable with going to the vet by taking him for visits when he isn’t getting poked or prodded. Give his favorite treat or toy to an employee and let them play with and reward him. If he thinks the vet is a fun place where he will receive praise, he will be a lot less likely to fear it.

 

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Toxic Dog Treats

We all love our furry friends ever so much. So when we hear about toxic food/treats, we obviously worry about our pets. Make sure to do your research and support brands that actually care about putting quality food in your pet’s stomach. Check the ingredient list on all food/treats, the expiration dates, and the reliability of the companies.

There have been many different outbreaks in the pet food industry lately resulting in heartrending consequences. Be aware and do you research!

http://miami.cbslocal.com/2012/06/20/toxic-treat-warning-for-dog-owners/

 

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Cleaning Dog Toys

If your dog toys do not get destroyed within the week, then from time to time, your dog toys need to be cleaned. After weeks of being chewed and carried around the house and outside, they get dirty. Washing off germs and bacteria will keep your dog healthy, the dog toys looking better and your home cleaner.

  1. Collect all your dog’s toys from around the house including soft plush toys, vinyl, plastic and even bones. Look under couches, tables and beds. Go outside and collect toys that are hidden under decks, trees and bushes.
  2. Sort the dog toys into groups. Put all plush, fabric and cloth toys into a laundry basket. Put all vinyl, plastic, rubber and nylon toys in a mop bucket. Place all natural bones in the kitchen sink. Discard any toys that are broken, torn or have small parts hanging loose. They may pose a choking hazard.
  3. Fill the mop bucket with hot water. Add one-half cup of bleach to the bucket and let the toys soak in the bleach water solution. After they have soaked for at least 30 minutes, use the scrub brush to loosen any dirt. Dump the bucket of bleach water, and refill with clean, clear hot water. Let the toys soak another 30 minutes. Remove the toys from the bucket, and hand rinse each toy under a faucet. Be sure no smell of bleach is left on the toys. Allow the dog toys to dry on a towel before giving them back to your pet.
  4. Use the scrub brush and hot water to clean the natural bones in the sink. Loosen any mud or dirt from outdoor play. Do not use any chemical cleaners on natural bones. Allow the bones to dry on a towel before giving them to your dog.
  5. Start a load of laundry for your plush and fabric dog toys. Select the hot water wash, and a partial load if you don’t have many dog toys. Add your laundry detergent before the toys so they don’t absorb all the soap. Add a small amount of bleach to the water. After the wash cycle is complete, put the dog toys into the dryer on the hottest drying cycle. This will help kill any germs and bacteria on the toys.
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How to Get Rid of Fleas with Home Remedies

thumbnail (2)Fleas not only drive your poor dog crazy with itching. They also carry disease that can make the dog very ill. They can cause skin allergies that lead to infection. Also, they will jump on you. Summer is an especially bad time for them, but your dog needs to be protected year round. Commercial flea killer is loaded with chemicals that can be harmful to both you and your pet. There are many home remedies that work just as well and are not nearly as dangerous.


Things You’ll Need

  •  Apple cider vinegar
  •  Lemon
  •  Spray bottle
  •  Flea comb
  •  Lavender essential oil
  •  Garlic or brewers yeast
Instructions

  1. Mix a solution of 1/3 apple cider vinegar to 2/3 water. After regular shampooing and rinsing, pour this solution all over the dog. Squeeze out the excess water and towel dry the dog vigorously. He will not smell like vinegar very long, except to the fleas who will stay away.
  2.  Feed the dog very small amounts of garlic or brewer’s yeast in their food. Some will advise against using garlic. According to Pets Pourri, garlic is not only good for fleas, but it helps with other ailments as well. Dr. Pitcairn, a veterinarian, also recommends the use of garlic in his book, “Complete Guide to Natural Health For Cats and Dogs.”
  3. Seep a cut up lemon in 8 oz. of water for a day. Pour this into a clean plastic spray bottle; spray the dog’s coat.  You’ll need to brush it through if the dog has long hair. The dog will smell fresh to you, but fleas will not like the smell.
  4. Repel the fleas with the scent of lavender. You can add several drops of lavender essential oil to the dogs regular shampoo bottle or its bath water. Be careful not to get essential oils in the dog’s eyes. Mix a spray bottle with eight ounces of water and several drops of the lavender oil. Mist the lavender water over the dogs coat either after bathing or on a dry coat every couple of days.
  5. Comb the dog with a flea comb. The teeth are very tight and will trap the fleas as you comb. Dunk the comb into a bowl of soapy water to dislodge the fleas and continue combing. You can also add a couple drops of the essential oil to this bowl.
  6. To remove a severe flea infestation, shampoo the dog with dish liquid. Suds the entire body up and let it soak several minutes. Rinse the dog exceptionally well to remove all traces of the dish liquid.
  7. Keep the dog bathed, groomed and healthy. Fleas will thrive in long matted hair that may contain dust, debris and skin irritations. A regular routine of grooming helps you be aware of fleas before they become overpopulated.

 Tips & Warnings
  •  Buy all natural pet shampoo that has conditioners in it. This will help keep the pet’s skin healthy.
  •  Fleas can cause the dog to become anemic. Check for fleas often.
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Pet-Friendly Home Additions

An estimated 73 million dogs and 90 million cats live in U.S. homes, and Americans are increasingly remodeling not only for themselves but also for their four-legged friends.

“People want to live comfortably in their home, but they also want their home to be a safe haven for their pet,” says Charlotte Reed, a pet expert and author in New York. Creating such a pet sanctuary can include some small — and a few large — renovations.

Here are 10 smart ideas on how you can make your home friendly and safe for your pet — and what impact these changes might have on your home if you decide to move out.

Smart flooring

Linoleum flooring is becoming popular among designers because it has anti-microbial properties, it’s easy to maintain and it is more environmentally sustainable than vinyl flooring, says Nancy Chwiecko, associate professor of interior design at the Rochester Institute of Technology in Rochester, N.Y., and author of the book “There’s a Dog in the House.”

Wood floors, too, are easier to maintain than carpet if you have a pet. Pick light to medium finishes, lower-luster glosses or distressed woods to help minimize scratches from pet nails. Keep your pet’s nails rounded and short to prevent scratches.

If you prefer carpet, consider modular floor-carpet tiles from companies such as Flor because they can be replaced easily in case of accidents, Chwiecko says. Flor will recycle any returned tiles.

Hosing stations

Dog-hosing stations are popular in custom homes in locations where pets can track in sand, dirt and mud.

You can give your pooch a quick rinse before he comes inside, in a washtub with a spray hose and tile wall in your mudroom or garage. Such a station can be built for about $750 to $1,000, says Mike Whittington, an independent subcontractor and building estimator in Floris, Iowa. Be sure to have hot and cold water and water-resistant flooring.

A cheaper option might be to put towels by the door and teaching your dog to wait outside until you clean its paws and fur, says Mychelle Blake, president of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. A child gate can help block off sections of your house near the back door, she says, so mud doesn’t get tracked all over the house until the dog is clean and dry.

Pet doors

If you work long hours or spend a lot of time away from home, pet doors can be a great way to make sure your dog isn’t stuck inside the house for hours on end.

Pet doors can be pricey, costing between $80 and $500. But there’s an array of options, says Jon Mortensen, owner of Seattle-based PetDoorStore.com, which sells thousands of pet doors each year. There are doors for walls, screens, windows — even sliding-glass doors. Some doors are activated by microchip for more security; others are built to withstand 50 mph winds.

Latches on cabinets and toilets

Childproof latches can be useful when you have a puppy or kitten that is fascinated with drinking or playing in the toilet or getting into cupboards. It’s important to keep pets from getting into food, cleaners and medicine. Lysol-type cleaners, chocolate, raisins, grapes, macadamia nuts and xylitol sweetener in gum can be toxic — even fatal — for dogs. Spinach leaves, potpourri and acetaminophen, the key ingredient in Tylenol, are extremely toxic for cats.

“Pets can chew through plastic bottles, so keep medicines away from your pets,” says Dr. Patricia Olson, chief veterinary adviser for the American Humane Association.

Remember, too, that cats and dogs like to chew on electrical cords, so tuck them away, unplug them or use plastic covers that snap over them. Child gates are an easy way to keep your dog away from certain areas of the house.

Window screens

If you live in a high-rise with open windows, screens are vital to keeping your pets safe, especially cats.

“People have the misconception that cats have good instincts and won’t jump out,” says Dr. Louise Murray, vice president of Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital in Manhattan.

During warm months, the hospital sees two to four cats a week that are hurt or killed in falls. She says that many people think that bars or child window guards will help, but cats can get through them. Cats will also jump from balconies and fire escapes, she says.

If you rent and do not want to spend money on permanent screens, you could buy inexpensive, accordion-style screens that fit various-size windows.

Cabinetry for litter boxes

More cat owners are sprucing up their pet’s litter box with specially designed wooden cabinets that can cost anywhere from $30 to $300. The cabinets conceal litter boxes, offer privacy for cats and keep other pets out.

This is a bathroom cabinet purchased at Ikea; the owners cut the hole themselves.

Before you buy one, consider the personality of your cat, Blake says. Some cats may refuse to go in them because they feel too confined and trapped. Ensure, too, that you do not put your cabinet or litter box near loud noises that can scare your animal. Blake says that she had a friend whose cat refused to go in the litter box because it was placed next to a furnace.

Fence

“I think good fencing is vital,” Chwiecko says. “You’re going to have a happier dog, a happier family and happier neighbors.”

Invisible fences can be a good option for people whose neighborhoods do not permit physical fences. But many pet experts do not recommend them because they can inflict pain, and some dogs test the fences every day. Some dogs also have also become more aggressive because they associate the shock from the fence with passers-by, Blake says.

If you have a physical fence, ensure it is in good condition and free of loose boards or metal that could hurt your pet or allow it to get out. Another tip: Keep benches and big rocks away from fences; they can be launching points for a dog to jump the fence.

Pet-friendly plants

Many common plants, including baby’s breath and crabapples, can be toxic to cats and dogs. Lilies are especially toxic to cats, Murray says. If you have a cat, be sure to remove any lilies from your flower arrangements.

The American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals’ website lists plants that are poisonous to animals. See a list of safe plants here.

If you fertilize or spray for weeds, remember to remove food dishes from the area, and keep your pets away for at least 24 hours. If you have an exterminator or lawn service come regularly to spray, keep pets inside until it is safe to let them back out. The Environmental Protection Agency‘s website includes information about poisonous lawn-spray chemicals.

Satin paint

Paint your walls with satin paint because a drooling or wet dog can stain walls painted with flat paint, Blake says. If your dog is a chewer or a licker, pick paints that are pet-safe. Benjamin Moore’s Pristine Eco Spec is low in volatile organic compounds, for example.

If you have a dog that is prone to chewing, watch that it does not ingest drywall, which will make it sick, Blake says. She found that out firsthand when her dog got sick after a wall chew. Consider if your dog is stressed or bored, and keep it away from walls using baby gates and plenty of chew toys, she says.

Pet overlook or porthole

If you have a cat and a second-story apartment window, you can find nifty window extensions for $40 that let your pet get outdoors in a safe environment. The extensions can be installed like an air-conditioning unit and offer windows on all sides. They can be removed just as easily.

You also can cut a window into your fence so Rover can get a good look at passers-by. Pet Peek is a window you can install in your fence for $34.98.

“You place it down on the fence, so your dog can be comfortable and see what’s going on,” says Caroline Best, founder of Best Friends Care LLC, makers of Pet Peek.

There are you 10 ways to improve a home to make it more friendly for pets…

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Building a Gated Dog Run

How to Build a Gated Dog Run thumbnail
A gated run offers a dog some security while he plays outside.

Your dog loves to be outside. It is natural and healthy for a dog to release his pent-up energy with outdoor exercise, stretching its muscles and tiring itself out through play. However, a responsible dog owner will build a run to permit her dog to get his exercise, rather than allowing him to roam the neighborhood unfettered. In addition, a run will keep a dog safe from such dangers as speeding cars or aggressive animals, not to mention preventing unplanned canine pregnancy. These instructions will result in a gated run measuring 30 feet long and 15 feet wide with one gate.

Things You’ll Need

  •  Lawn mower (optional)
  •  Rake
  •  Mallet or post setter
  •  4 Surveyor’s markers
  •  17 4-foot Metal fence posts
  •  Measuring tape
  •  1 Ball of twine
  •  Scissors
  •  Carpenter’s square
  • 1 100-foot roll Wire pet fencing
  • 1 package 6-inch zip ties, 100 count
  • Post hole digger or shovel
  • 2 6-foot Wooden posts, 4 inches by 4 inches
  • Saw
  • Hammer
  • Nails
  • Metal staple
  • 4 Metal “L” brackets (optional)
  • 1 Bag quick-setting concrete (optional)
  • Bucket (optional)
  • 2 8-foot pieces of lumber, 2 x 4 inches
  • Decorative fence boards, to cover width of gate
  • 2 Metal hinges

Prepare the Space

1. Remove any branches and large debris from the area.

2. Mow any tall grass, if needed. Rake away any cut grass or small debris, including rocks.

3. Mark one long side of the dog run. Set the first surveyor’s marker, indicating one of the front corners of the pen, using the mallet to drive it into the ground. Walk 30 feet toward what will be the rear of the run. Drive the second marker into the ground.

4. Mark the front and rear sides of the dog run. Starting at one of the corner markers, walk 15 feet in a direction perpendicular to the long side that has been set. Drive the third stake into the ground. Repeat this process, walking parallel to the first short side, to set the fourth marker.

5. String the twine between the markers to frame the outline of the pen. Use the carpenter’s square to determine if all corners are at 90-degree angles. Adjust the orientation of the posts as needed.

Build the Gate

6.Measure and cut the lumber. You will need two pieces of lumber 3 1/2 feet long and two pieces of lumber 3 feet long.

7. Frame the gate. Place the 3 1/2-foot long pieces of lumber on a flat surface. Rest the narrow edge of the lumber on the flat surface. Place the 3-foot-long pieces of lumber at each end of the long piece, parallel to each other and perpendicular to the long piece. Place the second long side, narrow edge resting on the flat surface, against the ends of the shorter sides. The four pieces of lumber should form a rectangle, wide edges meeting each other, with the shorter pieces of lumber sandwiched between the longer pieces.

8. Nail all four sides together, bracing them on one side with the “L” brackets.

9. Attach the fence boards to the gate. Flip the gate frame onto its opposite side. Place the fence boards on the side opposite the “L” brackets. Space the boards evenly and ensure that the top edges are level before nailing them in place. Attach the hinges to the top and the bottom of one long side of the gate.

Set the Posts

10. Drive the fence posts into the ground along the line marked by the string, starting at one corner of the run. Space the metal posts at 5-foot intervals along both long sides and one narrow side of the run. Including the corner posts, there should be seven poles on each wide side with two poles between them.

11. Drive one fence post into the ground at the open end of the run.

12. Dig a hole for one wooden post. This hole should be about 2 feet deep, so that 4 feet of post remain above the surface of the ground.

13. Use the constructed gate as a guide to determine where the second post hole should be dug. Remember that the gate door must swing freely. A gate opening that is slightly wide can be narrowed with spacers, as needed.

14. Drive the remaining posts into the ground, maintaining the 5-foot interval until all posts have been used.

15. Put the wooden posts in place. Prepare the concrete by mixing it with water, using the bucket as a container. Fill the post holes with concrete. Make certain the post is standing up straight before filling the second hole. Allow the concrete to set overnight.

Finishing the Run

16. Attach the metal fencing. Begin at one wooden post, securing the end of the metal wire to the post with metal staples. Unroll the metal wire along the frame of the run, pulling it as tight as possible. Secure the wire to each post using a minimum of three zip ties. Use additional ties at the corners of the run, as needed.

17. Secure the fencing to the second post using metal staples. Cut the metal fencing with the wire cutters.

18. Attach the hardware. Secure the gate hinges to the wooden poles, so that the bottom of the gate is an inch or less above the ground. Attach the latch to the opposite side of the gate.

Tips & Tricks

 

  •  Make sure that the wire rests against the ground on all four sides of the pen. For a slightly more secure fence, bury the fence wire a few inches below the surface of the ground.
  •  Bury chicken wire along the edges of the run to prevent a digging dog from escaping.
  •  A long, narrow rectangle is better than a short, wide square. The longer space will let even a larger dog stretch its legs in a run.
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How to Make a No-Sew Braided Fleece Dog Leash

How to Make a No-Sew Braided Fleece Dog Leash thumbnail Braided fleece leashes are gentle for training puppies.

Braided fleece dog leashes are soft to the touch and allow your pet to tug or pull with less discomfort to his neck. Fleece stretches slightly to absorb shock as a dog pulls forward on a leash. This results in less stress on his collar and your hands and arms as you walk or train your pet. Braiding the fleece strips together adds strength to the leash.

Things You’ll Need

  • 2 yards fleece material
  • Tape measure
  • Pencil
  • Scissors
  • Metal swivel snap
  • 1 foot twine
  • Colored duct tape

Instructions

  1. Lay the fleece material out on a flat surface. Measure 2 inches from the edge on one short side of the material and mark it with a pencil. Open a tape measure and extend the tip across the length of material. Lock the tape measure and set it down on the material at the 2-inch marking. Place a pencil next to the tape measure and draw a line down the 2-yard length of material. Cut the 2-yard by 2-inch wide strip of fabric with scissors. Repeat this step to cut two additional strips of fabric in the same size.

    2. Hold the metal swivel snap in one hand. Fold one strip of fleece in half lengthwise. Hold the fold behind the swivel snap eye in a loop and thread both ends through the loop. Pull both ends tightly to form a lark’s head knot. Repeat this to attach the additional two strips. You will end up with three sets of two pieces of material hanging from the swivel snap.

    3. Anchor the swivel snap to a solid surface by clipping it to an object or use duct tape to hold it steady. Grasp the left set of two strips and cross them over the center set of two. Grasp the right set of two strips and cross them over the center set of two to form a braid. Continue this sequence until you have 2 inches of non-braided material. Keep tension on the fabric as you braid.

    4. Make a loop in the unbraided material with all six strands. Pass the loose ends through the loop and pull all the loose ends tight to tie a knot securing them in place.

    5. Cut a 1-foot length of twine with scissors. Hold the knot on the end of the leash next to the length of leash to form a loop about 6 inches around for the handle. Place one end of the twine about 2 inches below the knot on the leash portion and hold it in place with one hand. Use your other hand to twist the twine in a circular motion over the leash, the leash and handle junction and about 2 inches past the knot. Loop the loose end of the twine through the second to last revolution around the leash and pull it tight. Cut off any excess length.

    6. Cut a strip of colored duct tape about 6 inches long. Wrap the tape tightly around the twine to cover it from sight and secure the handle.


Tips & Warnings

  • Choose your swivel clip size according to the size and weight of your pets. Large dogs that tug harder will need a larger swivel clip for strength.
  • Use three different colors of fleece for a variation in style.
  • You can use a permanent glue to attach the handle to the leash length if you have a smaller dog that doesn’t tug hard.
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Calming a Hyper Dog in the Car

Calming a Hyper Dog in the Car thumbnail

Your dog should associate the car with a fun trip.

Driving can be stressful enough, but if you have a high-strung dog pacing from side to side in the backseat, or — heaven forbid — hiding under your seat or crawling around under your pedals, you have a real safety hazard on your hands. Unless a pup is well-socialized for car rides, even a brief trip can be an anxiety-filled experience. Keeping a hyper dog calm in the car takes patience, some common sense and desensitization, but the reward of being able to travel with your pet is worth it.

Secure the Dog

A dog who is hyper or anxious should never ride unrestrained in the car. Place your dog in a crate secured by the seat belts in the car, or fasten her into a crash-test certified dog restraint harness. Dogs are den animals; they often feel most secure enclosed inside a crate. Resting comfortably in her bed inside a crate that is covered with a towel may be just the thing to alleviate her anxiety. Lisa Peterson of The American Kennel Club advises to place the crate in the middle seat and row of the car — as opposed to the very back of an SUV — and have the dog facing forward to expose her to less movement and minimize motion sickness.

Desensitization

This approach will take time and dedication on your part, but can go a long way with pets who are afraid, uncomfortable or anxious in the car. Start by putting the dog in the car with you for several minutes each day; you don’t even have to turn the car on or drive away. Sit quietly and calmly with the dog, stroking her coat and offering lots of praise; then return her to the house. After doing this for several days, the ASPCA suggests introducing short rides for a couple of days, once or twice a day, always remaining calm and quiet while giving your dog praise. If the dog doesn’t exhibit signs of anxiety — panting, drooling, trembling or whining, try a five-minute drive in your own familiar neighborhood and slowly work up to longer drives.

Take Your Dog to Fun Places

If you only put your dog into the car to take her to the vet, you can imagine how she might associate fear with riding in the car. Alleviate this by making sure the majority of your car trips together are somewhere fun, like a visit with your friends, a puppy play date or a trip to the park, even if it’s just located down the street. Bring her along to pet stores and other establishments that allow dogs. Make it a happy time and she’ll come to associate a car ride with pleasure, not anxiety.

Diversionary Tactics

An exercised and tired dog is less likely to be anxious in the car. If you are taking your pet on a road trip, provide lots of stimulation before you go. Take her favorite ball or toy, and stop frequently to give your dog time to stretch her legs, potty, drink water and get some quick playtime in if possible. Give your dog a complicated treat that she has to work at to eat, such as a rubber toy stuffed with peanut butter or cheese. For severe anxiety or for carsickness, ask your veterinarian for advice. He may recommend an herbal calming agent or medication to treat the dog for motion sickness.

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Find the Best Dematting Spray for Your Dog

A dog whose fur has become knotted or matted, such as from a lack of brushing, benefits from the use of a dematting spray to help remove those knots as painlessly as possible. Dematting sprays aid in loosening knots and conditioning the coat. Depending on your dog’s coat length and lifestyle, the best dematting spray for him will help keep his coat shiny, healthy and free of knots.

  1. Identification

    • A dematting spray specially formulated for dogs contains natural oils — such as sunflower, jojoba and safflower, or silicones — that coat the hair shafts of the dog’s fur to reduce friction and static when you brush him. These sprays make brushing out your dog’s mats less painful for him by keeping the hair follicles slippery, preventing breakage of the hair and usually reducing grooming time. Depending on the extent of your dog’s matting, you may need a spray that contains more oils to remove serious mats, especially in long-haired breeds; a lighter spray may work better for dogs with short hair and little to no matting.

    Ingredients

    • If your dog has itchy, dry skin, look for a dematting spray that contains colloidal oatmeal, hydrolyzed oat protein or aloe. Oatmeal and aloe naturally condition the hair, soothe dryness and relieve itching. Chamomile and calendula are natural flower essences that help reduce and heal skin inflammation and contribute to a shiny coat. Hydrosols, a natural byproduct of essential-oil making, have natural moisturizing properties that reduce mats and help to repel parasites like fleas and ticks. For active dogs, purchase dematting sprays that contain conditioning sunscreens, such as shea butter or vitamin E, which help protect your dog’s skin from becoming sunburned.

    Scent and Effectiveness

    • You can use dematting spray as a leave-in conditioner, and the scent will linger on your dog. Essential oils, unlike synthetic fragrance oils, have antibacterial properties that can help heal skin irritations and add a light, natural scent. Choose a scent that you find pleasant and that your dog tolerates as well; if your dog sneezes after application, find another scent or use an unscented product. Dematting sprays should make brushing your dog easier without making the coat appear greasy or limp. You can dilute some concentrated products with water or hydrosols. Avoid sprays containing alcohol, which can dry the skin and coat.

    Considerations

    • Before purchasing a dematting spray for your dog, check the ingredient list for any chemicals that you are aware your dog is allergic to. After trying a new dematting spray on your dog’s coat, check your dog for any skin reactions. A high-quality dematting spray makes the coat shiny, smooth and soft, and it helps to repel dirt. The spray should enhance your dog’s natural coat color, bringing out the shine and brightening the color. If your dog suffers from a chronic skin condition or has severe environmental allergies, consult

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What Can Make a Dog Suddenly Growl at Someone He Loves?

What Can Make a Dog Suddenly Growl at Someone He Loves? thumbnail

Your well-behaved dog may growl at you for various reasons. A dog growls to provide a warning that something is wrong or to show that he thinks he is in charge. When you know your dog loves you, a random, uncommon growl toward you can startle you. Before you become afraid of your best friend, it is always good to find out what caused the growl in the first place. To prevent growls from turning into something worse, such as a bite or an attack, give your dog proper training to prevent such events from happening.

 

Food

  • When you place, or drop, food in front of your dog, the excitement and opportunity to eat can be overwhelming to the dog. Your dog may let out a growl if you attempted to take the food away or if you get too close to it. If your dog is eating around other dogs, a growl can be common, as the dog likely is warning that he will not share with the other dogs. If a growl is directed toward you, it may be startling if the dog has never growled at you before, especially in this situation. Consider a few things before forming a fear. Was it a new type of food, a treat, a bone, something that fell off the counter that the dog knows he should not be eating? Situations like that may cause a growl. If your dog is eating out of his bowl and growls at you for simply walking by, then you may need to hire a trainer, or train the dog yourself, to nip that behavior right away to prevent a bite from happening.

Jealousy

  • If your dog becomes jealous, a growl may arise. If you are playing with, or petting, another dog, your dog may see that as unfair, or upsetting, which will cause the growl toward you or the other dog. Your dog may get jealous of another dog around you, especially if you have not socialized your dog with other dogs. Start training to prevent the growl from escalating to a bite or attack.

Health

  • When your normally well-behaved dog growls at you while you are petting him, there may be a health issue causing the growl. Pay attention to where you were petting your dog. Look for certain indications that an injury may be possible, such as if there is a cut or sore on the skin, the dog is limping or favoring a leg or if the area is swollen. Bring your dog to your veterinarian as soon as possible if you notice something may be wrong with your dog’s health. Your dog may also growl at you if you are attempting to clean a wound or administer medication.

Scared

  • Dogs growl if they are scared or startled, just like a human may gasp or scream. If you sneak up on your dog, you may scare him and cause him to growl at you. If the dog is unaware that you are in the room or approaching him, the surprise may set off a growl as a warning that you startled the dog. If your dog is hard of hearing or losing his sight, you may need to try to let your dog know you are coming into the room by turning on a light or making noise like stomping your feet or talking to the dog.

Passing Away

  • An elderly dog may growl when it is close to his time to pass away. Your dog may not feel well due to old age or because he is getting weak. A growl may happen as a sign that the dog is dying and wants to be left alone. At this time it is up to you to decide if you want to let the passing happen naturally or to euthanize your dog. If the dog is not in pain, you may decide to let the passing happen on its own, but if the dog is uncomfortable or suffering, euthanasia may be a better choice for your dog.

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