Puppy’s First Week at Home

Start housetraining your pup the moment he comes home.  It is important, and surprisingly easy, to train your puppy without him making a single toilet or chewing mistake.  Each mistake will make training considerably more difficult. Puppies quickly establish toilet habits and even a single mistake heralds many more in the future. Also, punishing puppies for soiling the house or making chewing mistakes inadvertently teaches them to soil the house or chew on shoes while their owners are away (and therefore, cannot punish). Remember, good habits are just as hard to break as bad habits and so, housetrain your puppy from the outset.

Confinement is the secret to errorless housetraining — using a doggy den and a puppy playroom) to make sure your unsupervised puppy will not make any mistakes. The whole point of confining puppies while they are young is so that they will be able to have as much freedom as possible when they are older.  Alternatively, if you let your new puppy roam free and form bad house-habits, you will no doubt confine him as an adult. Also, of course, make sure you teach your puppy to love his den and playroom.

With the proper use of a doggy den it is very easy to predict when your puppy will need to use the toilet. This means you can take your puppy to your chosen toilet location and know they will promptly pee or poop so that you may reward them extravagantly and play with them indoors, knowing they won’t have an accident.  Additionally, you are in complete control of what objects they have access to in their confinement areas, so they may learn to chew only appropriate items.  Hollow chewtoys stuffed with food will teach them what is appropriate to chew, and reward them for quietly enjoying some appropriate recreational chewing.

Regular, early confinement will help your puppy learn to enjoy spending time at home alone.

You need to ensure that an errorless housetraining and chewtoy-training program is instituted the very first day your puppy comes home. During the first week, puppies characteristically learn good or bad habits that set the precedent for weeks, months, and sometimes years to come.  Never forget, good habits are just as hard to break as bad habits!

The Very First Day Your Puppy Comes Home

Your canine newcomer is just itching to learn household manners. She wants to please, but she has to learn how. Before the young pup can be trusted to have full run of the house, somebody must teach the house rules. There’s no point keeping house rules a secret. Somebody has to tell the pup. And that somebody is you. Otherwise, your puppy will let her imagination run wild in her quest for occupational therapy to pass the time of day. Without a firm grounding in canine domestic etiquette, your puppy will be left to improvise in her choice of toys and toilets. The pup will no doubt eliminate in closets and on carpets, and your couches and curtains will be viewed as mere playthings for destruction. Each mistake is a potential disaster, since it heralds many more to come. If your pup is allowed to make “mistakes,” bad habits will quickly become the status quo, making it necessary to break bad habits before teaching good ones.

Begin by teaching your puppy good habits from the very first day she comes home. Your puppy’s living quarters need to be designed so that housetraining and chewtoy-training are errorless.

Be absolutely certain that you fully understand the principles of long-term and short-term confinement before you bring your new puppy home. With a long-term and short-term confinement schedule, housetraining and chewtoy-training are easy, efficient, and errorless. During her first few weeks at home, regular confinement (with chewtoys stuffed with kibble) teaches the puppy to teach herself to chew chewtoys, to settle down calmly and quietly, and not to become a recreational barker. Moreover, short-term confinement allows you to predict when your puppy needs to relieve herself, so that you may take her to the right spot and reward her for eliminating.

From the moment you choose your puppy, there is some considerable urgency regarding socialization and training. There is no time to waste. Basically, an adult dog’s temperament and behavior habits (both good and bad) are shaped during puppyhood — very early puppyhood. It is easy to make horrendous mistakes during your puppy’s first few weeks at home. Such mistakes usually have an indelible effect, influencing your pup’s behavior and temperament for the rest of his life. This is not to say that unsocialized and untrained eight-week-old pups cannot be rehabilitated. They can, if you work quickly. But while it’s easy to prevent behavior and temperament problems, rehabilitation can be both difficult and time-consuming, and it is unlikely that your pup will ever become the adult dog he or she could have been.

Mistakes

If your pup is ever left unsupervised indoors he will most certainly chew household articles and soil your house. Although these teeny accidents do little damage in themselves, they set the precedent for your puppy’s choice of toys and toilets for many months to come.

Any housesoiling or chewing mistake you allow your puppy to make is absolute silliness and absolute seriousness: silliness because you are creating lots of future headaches for yourself, and seriousness because millions of dogs are euthanized each year simply because their owners did not know how to housetrain or chewtoy-train them.

You should treat any puppy housesoiling or house-destruction mistake as a potential disaster, since it predicts numerous future mistakes from a dog with larger bladder and bowels and much more destructive jaws. Many owners begin to notice their puppy’s destructiveness by the time he is four to five months old, when the pup is characteristically relegated outdoors. Destruction is the product of a puppy’s boredom, lack of supervision, and a search for entertainment. Natural inquisitiveness prompts the lonely pup to dig, bark, and escape in his quest for some form of occupational therapy to pass the day in solitary confinement. Once the neighbors complain about the dog’s incessant barking and periodic escapes, the dog is often further confined to a garage or basement. Usually though, this is only a temporary measure until the dog is surrendered to a local animal shelter to play the lotto of life. Fewer than 25 percent of surrendered dogs are adopted, of which about half are returned as soon as the new owners discover their adopted adolescent’s annoying problems.

The above summarizes the fate of many dogs. Without a doubt, simple and predictable behavior problems are the number one terminal illness for domestic dogs. This is especially sad because all these simple problems could be prevented so easily. Housetraining and chewtoy-training are hardly rocket science. But you do need to know what to do. And you need to know what to do before you bring your puppy home.  Make certain that your puppy does not develop life-threatening behavior problems.

If you already have a puppy and feel that you are behind, do not throw in the towel. You must acknowledge, however, that you are behind and that your puppy’s socialization and education are now a dire emergency. Immediately do your best to catch up. Immediately, seek help from a pet dog trainer. To locate a Certified Pet Dog Trainer (CPDT) in your area contact the Association of Pet Dog Trainers.

Maybe take a week or two off of work to devote to your puppy. The younger your puppy, the easier and quicker it is to catch up on her developmental timetable and minimize losses. Every day you delay, however, makes it harder.

Good luck!

What to Expect from Your 8 Week-Old Puppy

Mental and Physical Development

Introducing Your Puppy to Their New Home Your puppy will want to explore their new home, but they’ll also be nervous. Help them out by keeping things calm when they first arrive. Put your other animals away and wait to have your friends come over to see your puppy. Once your puppy has gone to the bathroom outside, let them explore the areas of the house they’ll be allowed in, and then give them some food and water.

Fix your puppy a bed next to yours, either in a crate or a box. This is probably the first time they’ve slept alone, so they’ll be scared. Consider giving them a hot water bottle or a special toy that has a beating-heart sound to sleep with. If they cry, comfort them — even hold them until they fall asleep. Ignoring them can lead to increased fear of being left alone.

You may be tempted to take your puppy out on the town the next day, but be careful. The immunity to some diseases that your puppy received from their mother’s milk while nursing has begun to wear off by eight weeks of age. This means there may be a period of vulnerability after the puppy stops nursing and before their first vaccinations. For now, take them only to places where they won’t be exposed to other dogs. Avoid high-traffic areas like dog parks until they’re a few months older.

What You Should Feed Your Puppy It is important to provide your puppy with a high-quality, complete diet formulated specifically for puppies. Because they are constantly growing, puppies require higher amounts of fats, proteins and certain vitamins and minerals than adult dogs. Puppy food is specifically formulated to meet these needs.

Most commercially produced dog foods are complete and balanced, but they are not all of the same quality. One of the first things to check for is that the primary ingredient (usually the first ingredient listed) is a protein source. The most commonly used are chicken, beef, lamb, fish and some plant ingredients such as corn gluten.

If you have a large or giant breed puppy, you should provide a puppy food made specifically for these breeds. Diets for these breeds typically restrict certain ingredients to make sure the puppy doesn’t grow too fast, as rapid growth or excess intake of certain nutrients can lead to developmental or orthopedic problems.

Your veterinarian can assist you in choosing a food that is right for your puppy.

Health and Veterinary Care

First Vaccinations Eight-week-old puppies from shelters or breeders may have already received their initial vaccinations. If they haven’t, you will need to arrange for their first shots with a veterinarian. First shots — usually a five-vaccine combination of adenovirus cough, hepatitis, distemper, parainfluenza and parvovirus — are usually given between six and nine weeks of age.

The timing of a puppy’s first vaccinations is important — too soon and antibodies from the puppy’s mother’s milk could prevent the vaccines from taking effect, too late and the puppy could be unnecessarily vulnerable to disease.

Although veterinarians differ in their opinions on vaccination regimens, most prefer an approach in which the first vaccinations are given between six and nine weeks. An optional kennel cough vaccine may be included at this time. The leptospirosis vaccine is not recommended until 12 weeks, and is not required. These initial vaccines are repeated — and additional vaccines such as rabies may be added — at 12 to 15 weeks.

See Petside’s vaccination timeline for a full list of shots.

Teething Puppies, like children, go through a teething phase. They are born without teeth, and begin growing sharp baby teeth at three to four weeks of age. By eight weeks, your puppy should have all 28 of their baby teeth.

Once your puppy’s baby teeth start to come in, they will seek something on which to chew to alleviate the accompanying pain and discomfort. Giving your puppy the appropriate high-quality chew toys or chew treats, such as a frozen rope toy or a rawhide chew toy, will satisfy this need and keep them from chewing up household items.

Training: Housebreaking

At eight weeks old, your puppy is ready to begin housebreaking. If your puppy is on a regular feeding and sleeping schedule, they will likely be housebroken in no time. Plenty of positive reinforcement and a little patience are the only tools you will need.

Although puppies need to go to the bathroom frequently, the most pressing times are after they eat, play and wake up. Take your puppy outside immediately after meals, play times and naps. Every time the puppy goes to the bathroom outside, give an immediate reward of praise and petting.

Try to recognize when your puppy needs to go to the bathroom — watch for signals such as turning in circles — so you can take them outside before they have an accident. The more times you reinforce this behavior and reward it with praise, the sooner the puppy will learn.

Tips on Best Ways to Raise Your 8 Week Old Puppy

•   Start crate training
•   Take him out at least every 3 hours
•   Maintain a housetraining schedule
•   Be patient
•   Get your puppy used to grooming and being touched
•   Feed him 4 times per day
•   Never hit your puppy
•   Give positive reinforcement for work well done
•   Expose your puppy to different noises to minimize fear
•   Socialize!
•   Puppy proof your home
•   Make sure he has an ID tag
•   Provide good chew toys
•   Play with Your Puppy
•   Make sure he gets his vaccines!

Our Puppy Training at 7 Weeks

Housetraining

• The first step in training any puppy, no matter his age, is to establish house rules by housetraining him. Both the Humane Society of the United States and the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals recommend taking a new puppy outside at least every two hours for at least the first few months after he’s been adopted. A puppy’s bladder is small and needs to be emptied much more frequently than an adult dog’s bladder. Because of this, puppies should be walked immediately after they wake up, eat or drink. Without having instant access to an outdoor toilet, they will certainly go potty indoors. Housetraining a puppy successfully can take weeks or months and usually depends on the dog’s personality and intelligence.

Showing Leadership

• It’s common for dog trainers to tell owners that their dogs will never obey commands unless the dog being trained sees the person giving the command in a dominant position. When dominance training includes physical punishment or verbal abuse, especially with young puppies, the dogs being trained can quickly develop anxiety and phobias as a result. A more gentle way owners can establish leadership is by turning their backs and ignoring the puppy anytime he misbehaves, such as jumping on visitors, biting or barking. If the behavior continues, a trainer will usually put the puppy in a quiet room alone with a chew toy so he doesn’t get overly bored or destructive. After ten minutes, the dog is released. This method teaches puppies which behaviors are not allowed in their home.

Controlling Diet

• Owners and trainers help teach pets who’s the boss by feeding puppies on a schedule. A key rule when training a puppy is to never leave a bowl of food down for the puppy to eat on all day. Instead, owners make sure they are at home every time their puppies are fed and that they immediately take the dogs for a walk afterward. When training a puppy, an owner should also hand feed him for several weeks. If the puppy acts aggressive or growls while eating, it is common practice to immediately take the food away, wait five minutes and try hand feeding the dog again. Feeding on a schedule or hand feeding a puppy teaches the puppy who controls his food.

Praise

• It is important for owners of young puppies to show patience and remember that accidents do and will happen. Constantly scolding a puppy runs the risk of turning him into a timid and nervous pet, according to tips provided by the Humane Society of the United States. Dogs develop their behaviors based on what is expected of them, and praising a puppy helps teach him what behavior is expected. Whenever a puppy does something a trainer wants, the trainer will pet him, call him a good boy and give him a tasty treat or playtime with a favorite toy.

Socialization

• Owners can socialize a puppy by taking him to a dog park or arranging a play date with a friend’s dog soon after adoption. This is critical to his behavioral development. Properly socializing a 7-week-old puppy helps him learn social hierarchy and understand who his master is. It can also help prevent puppies from growing into nervous and anxious canines.

Tips for Training Small Dog Breeds

Photo © iStockphoto.com/sshepard

 Training is just as important for small breed dogs as it is for large breed dogs. Because their small size allows some people to overlook a small dog’s bad behavior, dog owners don’t always put as much time and energy into training their small breed dogs as they should. Unfortunately, this lack of training can lead to a number of behavior problems, including aggression, pushiness, and incessant barking. It can also be dangerous for your small dog. A dog who doesn’t learn to come when called is at risk for bolting out into traffic or becoming lost. And no matter their size, a well-trained dog is a much more pleasant companion than one with bad manners.

The following are some tips to help you get started on training your small dog:

Nothing in Life is Free

Their size means many small dogs are afforded privileges that larger dogs are not. For instance, small dogs are more likely to be allowed to sleep in your bed and sit on your furniture. While this is fine, as long as it is acceptable to you, it can lead to pushy dogs who think their owners are there to cater to their every whim. In other words, allowing your dog to do as he pleases all the time can lead to sharing your home with a tiny tyrant.

To let your small dog know you are in charge, get him started on a Nothing in Life is Free program. This type of program is designed to teach your dog that he has to work for everything he values. Give him a command which he must obey before he has access to anything he enjoys. For example, ask him to sit before he gets fed and down before he is allowed up on furniture. Your small dog will quickly learn that pushy behavior gets him nowhere.

Train on His Level

Training a small dog can be hard on your back and scary for your dog. Especially in the early stages of training basic obedience commands, it can intimidating for your small dog if you are towering over him. To put him at ease and to save your back, start at the same level as your dog. You can do this by getting down on the ground with your small dog, or bringing him up to your level by putting him on a table or step. Once he is comfortable with training and learning new commands, you can begin to work on training while you are standing and he is on the ground.

Keep it Positive

Positive reinforcement training is a great way to train small dogs. Techniques like clicker training and other reward-based training can be very effective. Because they are so small, punishment-based training can be harmful and frightening to a small dog. It is too easy to accidently hurt a small dog by giving him a leash correction. And being so much smaller than you is intimidating enough without adding punishment to the mix. Keep things positive and upbeat, and your small dog is sure to learn to love training sessions.

Special Considerations for Housetraining

Dog trainers often hear complaints from the owners of small dogs when it comes to housetraining. Owners feel that the recommended techniques for housebreaking, such as crate training, just don’t work for their small dogs. It’s not true. The same techniques that work on large breed dogs will work on your small breed dog, with one notable exception. Small dogs often have smaller bladders than larger dogs. This means that they aren’t physically able to hold it for as many hours as a larger dog. Your small breed dog may simply need a few extra trips outside each day. Owners whose schedule don’t allow them to walk their small dogs every 3-4 hours may need to hire a dog walker or choose to teach their dog to use housebreaking pads or a litter box indoors.

Sports, Advanced Obedience and More

Don’t underestimate your small dog’s ability to learn new behaviors and to excel in a wide variety of activities. Small dogs can do well at dog sports, such as agility and Earthdog, as well as advanced obedience. If these competitions don’t appeal to you, you may still want to consider training your dog for AKC Canine Good Citizen certification. With proper training and socialization, small dogs make wonderful companions who are welcomed wherever you go.

Teach Your Dog Self-Control

Dogs often misbehave because they lack self-control. This lack of control is at the root of a number of behavior problems, including jumping up, bolting out the door, and demanding attention. You can begin to get some control over your dog’s behavior by putting him to work. This means that you are going to ask your dog to do something for you, such as sitting or lying down, before he is allowed to do the things he wants to do, like eating, going for a walk, or playing a game with you. Many dog trainers refer to this as Nothing In Life is Free (NILF).

Nothing In Life is Free doesn’t replace training your dog to prevent specific behaviors, but rather reinforces the other training you are doing with your dog. It allows you to establish your role as leader, and helps to build your dog’s confidence.

Here’s how to put your dog to work:

Train Your Dog to Sit and Lie Down

You should train your dog the “sit” and “down” commands before you begin working on Nothing in Life is Free. You will be asking him to do these things frequently. You can teach him other commands to use with this program, as well, but he should know at least these basics before you start. Once he knows a few simple commands, it’s time to put your dog to work.

Make Your Dog Work for His Dinner

Dogs tend to get excited at mealtimes. This can lead to your dog jumping up on the counter as you prepare his dinner, or jumping up on you before you can get his bowl on the floor. Instead of allowing your dog to misbehave, make him work for his dinner. As you are preparing your dog’s meal, give him the command “sit” or “down.” He must sit calmly until his meal is placed on the floor before he is allowed to eat. If he jumps up before you have his bowl on the floor, pick up the bowl and put it away. Walk away for several minutes, and then return and again ask your dog to sit or lie down. As soon as he is sitting or lying down calmly, place his food on the floor and allow him to eat.

Make Your Dog Work to Go Out

Your dog should never be allowed to bolt out the door. If your dog is allowed to play off-leash in your yard, do not let him out while he is jumping or scratching on the door. Instead, ask him to sit. If he refuses to sit, walk away from the door for several minutes, and then return and try again. As soon as he is sitting, you can open the door and let him outside.

The same goes for taking your dog for a walk on a leash. Before your dog is allowed to go out for a walk, he must sit calmly while you put on his leash. If he refuses, walk away. Give him a few minutes to calm down, and then return and ask him to sit again. As soon as he sits, attach his leash and head for the door. When you reach the door, ask him to sit once again rather than bolting out the door and yanking you behind him. If he refuses, walk him away from the door, and try again in a few minutes.

Make Your Dog Work for Your Attention

Most of us love playing and cuddling with our dogs. It can get annoying, however, when your dog is constantly demanding your attention by nudging his head under your hand or pawing at you. Make your dog work for your attention. Ask him to perform a behavior, such as sitting or lying down, before you pet him or play a game with him. If he tries to demand your attention, stand up and walk away. Once he sits or lies down when you give the command, you can play and cuddle for as long as you like.

Patience is Key

When you start working on NILF, your dog’s behavior may seem to get a little worse before it gets better. Be patient. After you walk away from your dog a few times, he will begin to understand that he’s not going to get what he wants until he does as you ask. If you pair Nothing In Life is Free with obedience training, you should see a big improvement in your dog’s behavior. He may even surprise you by sitting down patiently before you even give a command!

4 Types of Dog Leashes

Leashes, or leads, are essential tools for every dog owner. Leashes are used in conjunction with collars for training and everyday purposes. Use this information to find the best leash for your dog.

Standard Leashes

Photo © Jenna Stregowski

Standard leashes are intended for basic training and everyday use. Typically available in lengths from 4-8 feet, the 6 foot length is ideal for most dogs. Standard leashes are available in leather, nylon and similar materials. Some standard leashes are made with chain, which can be useful for dogs who try to chew the leash.

Retractable Leashes

Photo © Jenna Stregowski

Retractable leashes contain a nylon band or cord of up to 26 feet that retracts into a plastic case with a handle. The leash can lock in place at any length. The mechanism is similar to that of a measuring tape. Retractable leashes can be helpful if you want to allow your dog to wander away from you without letting your dog off-leash. These leashes should only be used after your dog has been trained to walk on a regular leash. Otherwise, you will train your dog that it is permissible to pull on the leash. Do not let your dog out of your sight when on the leash, especially at longer lengths. The leash could become tangled or your dog could get into a hazardous situation.

Adjustable Leashes

Photo © Jenna Stregowski

Adjustable leashes are similar to standard leashes, but they have several loops along the leash that allow a clasp to shorten or lengthen the leash. The various sizes can be useful during training. Adjustable leashes can make it easy to briefly tether your dog to a pole or similar object. Your dog should not be left unattended white tethered.

Martingale Leads

Photo courtesy of The Leash Connection

Martingale leads are all-in-one collars and leashes. They operate in a similar way as the Martingale collars. Commonly used for toy breeds in the show ring, the collar portion slips over the head and tightens when the lead is pulled. A plastic tube slides down the lead to keep the collar in place. Larger versions are available for larger dogs.

How to Train Your Dog to Wave

Training a dog to lift his paw to wave hello or good-bye is not too difficult. Your friends are sure to be impressed by this cool dog trick!

What You Need

To train a dog to wave, all you need is your dog and some yummy dog treats. You should also have your clicker handy if you are using clicker training.

Here’s How to Do It

1. Before you start training a dog to wave, he should first know how to shake paws. Waving is built from what he already knows how to do when he shakes. If he hasn’t learned to shake yet, you should go back and work on this skill with your dog.
2. Give your dog the command “shake.” When he lifts his paw to shake your hand, move your hand up slightly so he has to move his paw up a bit to get to your hand.
3. When your dog moves his paw up farther than he would to shake, click your clicker or tell him “good,” and give him a treat.
4. Repeat this action a few times, each time moving your hand up a little higher until your dog is raising his paw above his head.
5. Once your dog has been putting his paw up several times in a row, give the command “shake,” and as soon as your dog starts reaching his paw out to you, give the command “wave” (or you can use the command “say hello” or “wave bye”) and again follow steps 2-4.
6. Repeat this several times until your dog is consistenly raising his paw. After a number of repetitions, stop using the shake command, and only give the command “wave.”
7. Most dogs quickly learn to raise their paw over their head on command. Once your dog is doing it consistently doing it on command, you can begin to select for the best waves. Begin to only give him treats when his paw is over his head and moving up and down a bit in a waving motion.
8. Practice the wave command for a few minutes at time, two or three times each day. Your dog will quickly be impressing your friends as he greets them with a wave hello!

Capturing the Wave

If you are using a clicker to train a dog, you may be able to teach your dog to wave by capturing the behavior. Many dogs use their paws to get your attention. You can capture this behavior with your clicker, and use it to teach your dog to wave. Here’s how to do it:

1. Keep your clicker and some treats handy, and the next time your dog paws at you, click your clicker and give him a treat.
2. Repeat this several times, each time your dog raises his paw to get your attention.
3. A dog who is used to clicker training, will soon begin offering behaviors to try to get a treat. Continue clicking and giving treats each time he raises his paw.
4. Next, add the command “wave.” Say the command and wait. Each time your dog raises his paw, click and treat. Your dog will soon be offering the behavior more quickly after you give the command.
5. Once your dog is consistently waving on command, you can begin to only click and treat for the behaviors which look the most like a wave.
6. As in the above steps, practice the wave command several times each day for short training sessions.

Puppy Training and Socialization

Photo by Amanda Edwards/Getty Images

Socialization is the first step in raising a well-behaved dog. During the first weeks of their lives, puppies go through a critical period of development. When a puppy is exposed to new people, places, and situations in a positive way during this period, there’s a good chance he’ll be calm and accepting when he experiences them again later in life.

What Is Socialization?

Socialization is just what it sounds like – socializing. Your puppy should meet and interact with as many types of people, animals, and environments as possible. By the time he reaches about 4 months old, your puppy should learn to accept being petted by strangers, meeting other dogs, being handled by a veterinarian or groomer, and meeting a wide variety of people.

When Should Socialization Take Place?

Puppy socialization should take place when your dog is between 8 and 16 weeks old. Because puppies have not received all their vaccinations, you should talk to your veterinarian about when it’s safe to expose your puppy to new people and places.

Why Is Socialization So Important?

Socializing your puppy helps him to become a happy, healthy, and well-behaved member of your family. Properly socialized puppies are less likely to develop behavior problems as they grow into adults. Dogs who don’t get early socialization may react with fear or aggression when they are exposed to new things. It is much easier to teach your puppy to accept new things now than it is to retrain him after bad habits develop.

How Should a Puppy Be Socialized?

Socialization should involve as many people and situations as possible. Introduce your puppy to a wide variety of people, including men, women, children of all ages, people in wheelchairs, men with beards, and people wearing all kinds of clothing (e.g., uniforms, sunglasses, rain coats and umbrellas, hats and gloves, etc.). Before your puppy has gotten all of his vaccinations, you can begin to socialize him by inviting people to your home to meet him.

Handling exercises are another important part of socializing. Think the ways your dog may be handled in his lifetime – a child could pull his tail, a veterinarian might need to restrain him, you may need to hold his feet to clip his nails. If you get your puppy used to being handled in a gentle manner now, you will be less likely to have trouble handling him when he has reached adulthood.

Once your veterinarian approves taking your puppy to new places, you can begin socializing him outside your home. This is a good time to get him used to riding in the car, meeting other dogs, visiting the groomer and pet supply store, and taking walks in your neighborhood.

Socialization should always be kept positive. Allow your puppy to approach new things in his own time. You can use treats and praise to encourage your puppy to approach unfamiliar people and objects. Never push your puppy past his comfort level or he may become fearful of the things you are trying to get him to accept.

Can a Dog Trainer Help With Socialization?

Puppy training classes are a great way to enhance your puppy’s socialization. Dog trainers usually refer to these classes as “Puppy Kindergarten.” They should touch on the usual concerns of the new puppy parent, like housetraining and curbing destructive behavior. A good puppy kindergarten will also help your puppy to get comfortable with new people and being handled. Your veterinarian or local animal shelter should be able to help you find a good puppy kindergarten class.

Six Weeks to a Well-Trained Dog

Whether you are sharing your home with a new puppy or an adult dog, he is sure to benefit from training. If you’re unsure where to begin, the following schedule can help you get organized and start training a dog. For each week, there are some ideas of basic commands to work on, as well as some tips to prevent or modify behavior problems.

Week 1

• Sit: This week, work on teaching the dog to sit. Plan on spending about 5 minutes a few times each day working on the “sit” command.
• Introduce the Crate: If you haven’t already been using a crate, this is a good time to get your dog used to it. The crate is a wonderful tool to manage your dog’s behavior when you aren’t there to supervise. Take a little time each day this week to let your dog get used to the crate, and begin letting him sit in there for a few minutes at a time.
• Establish a Routine: Dogs thrive on routine. This week, take some time to create a schedule of mealtimes, playtime, and walks. Stick with it as closely as possible during the training weeks and beyond. This helps with housebreaking, as well as other common behavior issues.
• Invest in Toys: Do some shopping this week, and get a variety of interesting toys for your dog. Make sure to include some things such as Kong toys or Buster Cubes which provide some mental stimulation. Each week throughout this process, rotate the different toys so your dog always has something new and interesting to play with.

Week 2

• Down and Emergency Recall: This week, spend a few minutes several times each day working on the down command and teaching your dog the emergency recall.
• Crate Training: By this time, your dog be fairly comfortable in his crate. Start leaving him in his crate for longer periods of time, but no longer than a few hours at a stretch. Be sure to leave him with some fun and interesting toys. Continue using the crate throughout each week of training.
• Loose Leash Walk: You can also begin teaching your dog to walk on a loose leash. Plan on at least one short walk each day to practice this skill. This is a skill that you should continue working on through each week of the training.

Week 3

• Come and Leave It: The basic commands to work on this week are the “come” and “leave it” commands. Spend some time each day practicing these commands.
• Stop Jumping: This week you can also begin working on teaching your dog not to jump up. You can set aside time each day to practice, or you can wait until it comes up in your regular day-to-day activities (like when your dog jumps up to greet people coming in the door) to work on it.
• Review: Take 10 minutes at least 3 times this week to review the commands and behaviors you’ve already worked on.

Week 4

• Wait: This week, work on the “wait” command. You can practice this in regular training sessions, or you can wait for opportunities to crop up each day. Make sure your dog waits before going out doors or coming out of his crate.
• Go to Your Place: Begin working on teaching your dog to go to a specific place and lie down in your home. Some great times to practice having your dog lay calmly in his place is during mealtimes or when you’re sitting watching television or reading a book.

Week 5

• Drop It: In several short training sessions each day, teach your dog the “drop it” command.
• Stop Barking: Begin training your dog to be quiet by working on the “speak” and “quiet” commands. You can do this during training sessions or you can wait until your dog barks and use it as an opportunity to practice.

Week 6

• Pick a Trick: Now that your dog knows many basic commands, you can work on teaching him a trick, such as roll over or play dead.
• Heel: By now your dog probably has a pretty firm grasp on walking on a loose leash. If you would like a little more control during walks, you can now introduce the “heel” command.
• Review, Review, Review: Your dog should now be responding well to a number of commands, and some other behavior issues should have been addressed. This does not mean you’re done with training. Remember to practice and reinforce your dog’s training for the lifetime of your dog. The training will ensure that your dog is a happy and well-adjusted member of your family.

Q & A: Why Does Dog Urine Kill Grass?

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Question: Why does dog urine cause brown spots on grass?

Help! My dog’s urine is killing my lawn. Why does dog urine make the grass turn brown or yellow? How can I stop this? I love my dog but I would like a nice lawn too.

Answer: Grass burns from dog urine are a source of frustration for dog owners who take pride in a beautiful lawn. Brown or yellow spots of dead grass are unsightly, but some dog owners feel that it’s just part of living with dogs. In fact, there are ways to prevent grass burns from dog urine.While nitrogen is an essential component in healthy soil, high concentrations of it can cause grass to turn yellow or brown. Urine is naturally high in nitrogen and alone can cause grass burns. However, lawn fertilizer also contains nitrogen. An excess of either or a combination of urine and fertilizer may result in an overdose of nitrogen, thus “burning” the grass. Salts and other compounds in dog urine may also contribute to grass burn. In addition, highly acidic or alkaline urine may alter pH of the soil in that area of your yard, adversely affecting the grass there.

It may seem like female dog urine causes more trouble to the lawn than male dog urine. This is simply because most females tend to squat and urinate in one place, while many males lift the leg and “mark” upright objects in multiple locations. The composition of a dog’s urine does not vary that much between male and female dogs, especially when spayed or neutered.

There are a few ways to prevent brown or yellow spots on your lawn caused by dog urine. You can try more than one option at a time for maximum results. There is no guaranteed way to end urine spots in the yard, but the following methods might help stop grass burns caused by dog urine:

1. Train your dog to urinate in one area and plant a urine-resistant ground covering in that area. One great option for this is clover. You might also try creating a dog-friendly landscapein your entire yard.
2. Give your dog a supplement or food additive that is designed to neutralize the nitrogen in the urine. One example of this type of product is Naturvet Grass Saver (compare prices). As alway, ask your vet before starting any supplement. Additionally, never attempt to alter your dog’s urine pH unless specifically recommended by your vet.
3. Immediately after your dog urinates, use a garden hose to rinse off the area. You might also consider switching to a low-nitrogen fertilizer for your lawn (make sure it’s pet-safe too).

Remember that other animals might have access to your yard and their urine can cause lawn damage as well. A fence will keep out any dogs passing by, but cats and various wild animals are not so easy to stop. This may or may not explained continued brown or yellow spots in the yard after implementing the above recommendations.