Update from the Whelping Box-Week 3

The third week of a pup’s life is marked by huge milestones. It’s like they turn into puppies (as most people think of puppies) overnight.

This litter was born on May 23rd, 2014! There are adorable, chocolate, fleece-coated, medium-sized Australian Labradoodles. There are 5 puppies in this litter-1 boy and 4 girls. They are all THREE WEEKS OLD NOW!

Here it is, Day 21 or Week 3, and just look at what’s happened:

• Walking has become the preferred method of ambulation (instead of crawling).  Granted, it’s still a drunken-sailor walk, but they’re up on all fours!
• Their vision is becoming usable. When they “see” things now, they react appropriately with sniffs or puzzlement or growls or barks or pounces.
• They recognize each other (oh boy, litter mates!).
• They play with each other. Okay, so it doesn’t last very long, but they do “play” for short stretches.
• They wrassle. :O)
• They’re feeling secure with their humans, not just with Fiona.
• They can pant and lap.
• They have started to grow in (ouch! for Fiona) teeth!  Their baby teeth are just poking through their gums, and just like human babies, this is uncomfortable for them.  They’re beginning to feel the need to chew (look out world!)
• They can voluntarily sit, stand, roll over, scratch, paw, wag their tails, chew, investigate objects they “see” (still blurry, but visible), and are just beginning to climb.

We are accepting deposits for this litter now!

Here are some pictures of the adorable puppies!

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Toxic Dog Treats

We all love our furry friends ever so much. So when we hear about toxic food/treats, we obviously worry about our pets. Make sure to do your research and support brands that actually care about putting quality food in your pet’s stomach. Check the ingredient list on all food/treats, the expiration dates, and the reliability of the companies.

There have been many different outbreaks in the pet food industry lately resulting in heartrending consequences. Be aware and do you research!

http://miami.cbslocal.com/2012/06/20/toxic-treat-warning-for-dog-owners/

 

Puppy Update-10 Weeks Old!

We were born January 4, 2013 and we will be ready to go to our “forever homes” in mid March. There are 6 boys and 1 girl and we all love snuggling together in a big “puppy pile.” Our names are Gimli, Bentley, O’Reilly, Keegan, Doolan, Angus, and Iona. We’re all TEN WEEKS OLD now!

We are accepting deposits on puppies now! The puppies are ready and waiting for their forever homes!

Shoot us an email at clancyaussiedoodles@hotmail.com or give us a call at (307) 413-5892 if you are interested.

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Puppy Playtime

We had a fun day today playing with the puppies!

Check it out!

Here is a video of playtime with Bentley-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M4STPX2bKIA

And here is a video of Gimli-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFuatRLg2po

The puppies are 7 weeks old now! They are getting big and strong and becoming more adorable each day! Watching them grow up and develop their own personalities is wonderful!

Update from the Whelping Box-Week 3

Though I know well that the third week of a pup’s life is marked by huge milestones. It’s like they turn into puppies (as most people think of puppies) overnight.

This litter was born on January 4, 2013! There are adorable, chocolate, fleece-coated, medium-sized Australian Labradoodles. There are 7 puppies in this litter-6 boys and 1 girl. They are all THREE WEEKS OLD NOW!

Here it is, Day 21 or Week 3, and just look at what’s happened:

• Walking has become the preferred method of ambulation (instead of crawling).  Granted, it’s still a drunken-sailor walk, but they’re up on all fours!
• Elimination and voiding is now something they do on their own. Fiona is cleaning less; the humans are cleaning more. 🙂
• The pups get up from where they’re sleeping and waddle over to a different part of the whelping box to potty, then waddle back to the puppy pile. They’re instinctively pottying in places other than where they sleep.
• Their vision is becoming usable. When they “see” things now, they react appropriately with sniffs or puzzlement or growls or barks or pounces.
• They recognize each other (oh boy, litter mates!).
• They play with each other. Okay, so it doesn’t last very long, but they do “play” for short stretches.
• They wrassle. :O)
• They’re feeling secure with their humans, not just with Fiona.
• They can pant and lap.
• They have started to grow in (ouch! for Fiona) teeth!  Their baby teeth are just poking through their gums, and just like human babies, this is uncomfortable for them.  They’re beginning to feel the need to chew (look out world!)
• They can voluntarily sit, stand, roll over, scratch, paw, wag their tails, chew, investigate objects they “see” (still blurry, but visible), and are just beginning to climb.
• This morning, I noticed that the puppies might be responding to sound, so I suspect their ears may be starting to unseal.
• We will be giving the puppies their litter names this weeks also!

We are accepting deposits for this litter now!

Here are some pictures of the adorable puppies!

 

Building a Gated Dog Run

A gated run offers a dog some security while he plays outside.

Your dog loves to be outside. It is natural and healthy for a dog to release his pent-up energy with outdoor exercise, stretching its muscles and tiring itself out through play. However, a responsible dog owner will build a run to permit her dog to get his exercise, rather than allowing him to roam the neighborhood unfettered. In addition, a run will keep a dog safe from such dangers as speeding cars or aggressive animals, not to mention preventing unplanned canine pregnancy. These instructions will result in a gated run measuring 30 feet long and 15 feet wide with one gate.

Things You’ll Need

•  Lawn mower (optional)
•  Rake
•  Mallet or post setter
•  4 Surveyor’s markers
•  17 4-foot Metal fence posts
•  Measuring tape
•  1 Ball of twine
•  Scissors
•  Carpenter’s square
• 1 100-foot roll Wire pet fencing
• 1 package 6-inch zip ties, 100 count
• Post hole digger or shovel
• 2 6-foot Wooden posts, 4 inches by 4 inches
• Saw
• Hammer
• Nails
• Metal staple
• 4 Metal “L” brackets (optional)
• 1 Bag quick-setting concrete (optional)
• Bucket (optional)
• 2 8-foot pieces of lumber, 2 x 4 inches
• Decorative fence boards, to cover width of gate
• 2 Metal hinges

Prepare the Space

1. Remove any branches and large debris from the area.

2. Mow any tall grass, if needed. Rake away any cut grass or small debris, including rocks.

3. Mark one long side of the dog run. Set the first surveyor’s marker, indicating one of the front corners of the pen, using the mallet to drive it into the ground. Walk 30 feet toward what will be the rear of the run. Drive the second marker into the ground.

4. Mark the front and rear sides of the dog run. Starting at one of the corner markers, walk 15 feet in a direction perpendicular to the long side that has been set. Drive the third stake into the ground. Repeat this process, walking parallel to the first short side, to set the fourth marker.

5. String the twine between the markers to frame the outline of the pen. Use the carpenter’s square to determine if all corners are at 90-degree angles. Adjust the orientation of the posts as needed.

Build the Gate

6.Measure and cut the lumber. You will need two pieces of lumber 3 1/2 feet long and two pieces of lumber 3 feet long.

7. Frame the gate. Place the 3 1/2-foot long pieces of lumber on a flat surface. Rest the narrow edge of the lumber on the flat surface. Place the 3-foot-long pieces of lumber at each end of the long piece, parallel to each other and perpendicular to the long piece. Place the second long side, narrow edge resting on the flat surface, against the ends of the shorter sides. The four pieces of lumber should form a rectangle, wide edges meeting each other, with the shorter pieces of lumber sandwiched between the longer pieces.

8. Nail all four sides together, bracing them on one side with the “L” brackets.

9. Attach the fence boards to the gate. Flip the gate frame onto its opposite side. Place the fence boards on the side opposite the “L” brackets. Space the boards evenly and ensure that the top edges are level before nailing them in place. Attach the hinges to the top and the bottom of one long side of the gate.

Set the Posts

10. Drive the fence posts into the ground along the line marked by the string, starting at one corner of the run. Space the metal posts at 5-foot intervals along both long sides and one narrow side of the run. Including the corner posts, there should be seven poles on each wide side with two poles between them.

11. Drive one fence post into the ground at the open end of the run.

12. Dig a hole for one wooden post. This hole should be about 2 feet deep, so that 4 feet of post remain above the surface of the ground.

13. Use the constructed gate as a guide to determine where the second post hole should be dug. Remember that the gate door must swing freely. A gate opening that is slightly wide can be narrowed with spacers, as needed.

14. Drive the remaining posts into the ground, maintaining the 5-foot interval until all posts have been used.

15. Put the wooden posts in place. Prepare the concrete by mixing it with water, using the bucket as a container. Fill the post holes with concrete. Make certain the post is standing up straight before filling the second hole. Allow the concrete to set overnight.

Finishing the Run

16. Attach the metal fencing. Begin at one wooden post, securing the end of the metal wire to the post with metal staples. Unroll the metal wire along the frame of the run, pulling it as tight as possible. Secure the wire to each post using a minimum of three zip ties. Use additional ties at the corners of the run, as needed.

17. Secure the fencing to the second post using metal staples. Cut the metal fencing with the wire cutters.

18. Attach the hardware. Secure the gate hinges to the wooden poles, so that the bottom of the gate is an inch or less above the ground. Attach the latch to the opposite side of the gate.

Tips & Tricks

 

•  Make sure that the wire rests against the ground on all four sides of the pen. For a slightly more secure fence, bury the fence wire a few inches below the surface of the ground.
•  Bury chicken wire along the edges of the run to prevent a digging dog from escaping.
•  A long, narrow rectangle is better than a short, wide square. The longer space will let even a larger dog stretch its legs in a run.

How to Make a No-Sew Braided Fleece Dog Leash

Braided fleece leashes are gentle for training puppies.

Braided fleece dog leashes are soft to the touch and allow your pet to tug or pull with less discomfort to his neck. Fleece stretches slightly to absorb shock as a dog pulls forward on a leash. This results in less stress on his collar and your hands and arms as you walk or train your pet. Braiding the fleece strips together adds strength to the leash.

Things You’ll Need

• 2 yards fleece material
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Scissors
• Metal swivel snap
• 1 foot twine
• Colored duct tape

Instructions

1. Lay the fleece material out on a flat surface. Measure 2 inches from the edge on one short side of the material and mark it with a pencil. Open a tape measure and extend the tip across the length of material. Lock the tape measure and set it down on the material at the 2-inch marking. Place a pencil next to the tape measure and draw a line down the 2-yard length of material. Cut the 2-yard by 2-inch wide strip of fabric with scissors. Repeat this step to cut two additional strips of fabric in the same size.

   2. Hold the metal swivel snap in one hand. Fold one strip of fleece in half lengthwise. Hold the fold behind the swivel snap eye in a loop and thread both ends through the loop. Pull both ends tightly to form a lark’s head knot. Repeat this to attach the additional two strips. You will end up with three sets of two pieces of material hanging from the swivel snap.

   3. Anchor the swivel snap to a solid surface by clipping it to an object or use duct tape to hold it steady. Grasp the left set of two strips and cross them over the center set of two. Grasp the right set of two strips and cross them over the center set of two to form a braid. Continue this sequence until you have 2 inches of non-braided material. Keep tension on the fabric as you braid.

   4. Make a loop in the unbraided material with all six strands. Pass the loose ends through the loop and pull all the loose ends tight to tie a knot securing them in place.

   5. Cut a 1-foot length of twine with scissors. Hold the knot on the end of the leash next to the length of leash to form a loop about 6 inches around for the handle. Place one end of the twine about 2 inches below the knot on the leash portion and hold it in place with one hand. Use your other hand to twist the twine in a circular motion over the leash, the leash and handle junction and about 2 inches past the knot. Loop the loose end of the twine through the second to last revolution around the leash and pull it tight. Cut off any excess length.

   6. Cut a strip of colored duct tape about 6 inches long. Wrap the tape tightly around the twine to cover it from sight and secure the handle.

Tips & Warnings

• Choose your swivel clip size according to the size and weight of your pets. Large dogs that tug harder will need a larger swivel clip for strength.
• Use three different colors of fleece for a variation in style.
• You can use a permanent glue to attach the handle to the leash length if you have a smaller dog that doesn’t tug hard.

Find the Best Dematting Spray for Your Dog

A dog whose fur has become knotted or matted, such as from a lack of brushing, benefits from the use of a dematting spray to help remove those knots as painlessly as possible. Dematting sprays aid in loosening knots and conditioning the coat. Depending on your dog’s coat length and lifestyle, the best dematting spray for him will help keep his coat shiny, healthy and free of knots.

1. Identification

   • A dematting spray specially formulated for dogs contains natural oils — such as sunflower, jojoba and safflower, or silicones — that coat the hair shafts of the dog’s fur to reduce friction and static when you brush him. These sprays make brushing out your dog’s mats less painful for him by keeping the hair follicles slippery, preventing breakage of the hair and usually reducing grooming time. Depending on the extent of your dog’s matting, you may need a spray that contains more oils to remove serious mats, especially in long-haired breeds; a lighter spray may work better for dogs with short hair and little to no matting.

   Ingredients

   • If your dog has itchy, dry skin, look for a dematting spray that contains colloidal oatmeal, hydrolyzed oat protein or aloe. Oatmeal and aloe naturally condition the hair, soothe dryness and relieve itching. Chamomile and calendula are natural flower essences that help reduce and heal skin inflammation and contribute to a shiny coat. Hydrosols, a natural byproduct of essential-oil making, have natural moisturizing properties that reduce mats and help to repel parasites like fleas and ticks. For active dogs, purchase dematting sprays that contain conditioning sunscreens, such as shea butter or vitamin E, which help protect your dog’s skin from becoming sunburned.

   Scent and Effectiveness

   • You can use dematting spray as a leave-in conditioner, and the scent will linger on your dog. Essential oils, unlike synthetic fragrance oils, have antibacterial properties that can help heal skin irritations and add a light, natural scent. Choose a scent that you find pleasant and that your dog tolerates as well; if your dog sneezes after application, find another scent or use an unscented product. Dematting sprays should make brushing your dog easier without making the coat appear greasy or limp. You can dilute some concentrated products with water or hydrosols. Avoid sprays containing alcohol, which can dry the skin and coat.

   Considerations

   • Before purchasing a dematting spray for your dog, check the ingredient list for any chemicals that you are aware your dog is allergic to. After trying a new dematting spray on your dog’s coat, check your dog for any skin reactions. A high-quality dematting spray makes the coat shiny, smooth and soft, and it helps to repel dirt. The spray should enhance your dog’s natural coat color, bringing out the shine and brightening the color. If your dog suffers from a chronic skin condition or has severe environmental allergies, consult

What to Expect from Your 8 Week-Old Puppy

Mental and Physical Development

Introducing Your Puppy to Their New Home Your puppy will want to explore their new home, but they’ll also be nervous. Help them out by keeping things calm when they first arrive. Put your other animals away and wait to have your friends come over to see your puppy. Once your puppy has gone to the bathroom outside, let them explore the areas of the house they’ll be allowed in, and then give them some food and water.

Fix your puppy a bed next to yours, either in a crate or a box. This is probably the first time they’ve slept alone, so they’ll be scared. Consider giving them a hot water bottle or a special toy that has a beating-heart sound to sleep with. If they cry, comfort them — even hold them until they fall asleep. Ignoring them can lead to increased fear of being left alone.

You may be tempted to take your puppy out on the town the next day, but be careful. The immunity to some diseases that your puppy received from their mother’s milk while nursing has begun to wear off by eight weeks of age. This means there may be a period of vulnerability after the puppy stops nursing and before their first vaccinations. For now, take them only to places where they won’t be exposed to other dogs. Avoid high-traffic areas like dog parks until they’re a few months older.

What You Should Feed Your Puppy It is important to provide your puppy with a high-quality, complete diet formulated specifically for puppies. Because they are constantly growing, puppies require higher amounts of fats, proteins and certain vitamins and minerals than adult dogs. Puppy food is specifically formulated to meet these needs.

Most commercially produced dog foods are complete and balanced, but they are not all of the same quality. One of the first things to check for is that the primary ingredient (usually the first ingredient listed) is a protein source. The most commonly used are chicken, beef, lamb, fish and some plant ingredients such as corn gluten.

If you have a large or giant breed puppy, you should provide a puppy food made specifically for these breeds. Diets for these breeds typically restrict certain ingredients to make sure the puppy doesn’t grow too fast, as rapid growth or excess intake of certain nutrients can lead to developmental or orthopedic problems.

Your veterinarian can assist you in choosing a food that is right for your puppy.

Health and Veterinary Care

First Vaccinations Eight-week-old puppies from shelters or breeders may have already received their initial vaccinations. If they haven’t, you will need to arrange for their first shots with a veterinarian. First shots — usually a five-vaccine combination of adenovirus cough, hepatitis, distemper, parainfluenza and parvovirus — are usually given between six and nine weeks of age.

The timing of a puppy’s first vaccinations is important — too soon and antibodies from the puppy’s mother’s milk could prevent the vaccines from taking effect, too late and the puppy could be unnecessarily vulnerable to disease.

Although veterinarians differ in their opinions on vaccination regimens, most prefer an approach in which the first vaccinations are given between six and nine weeks. An optional kennel cough vaccine may be included at this time. The leptospirosis vaccine is not recommended until 12 weeks, and is not required. These initial vaccines are repeated — and additional vaccines such as rabies may be added — at 12 to 15 weeks.

See Petside’s vaccination timeline for a full list of shots.

Teething Puppies, like children, go through a teething phase. They are born without teeth, and begin growing sharp baby teeth at three to four weeks of age. By eight weeks, your puppy should have all 28 of their baby teeth.

Once your puppy’s baby teeth start to come in, they will seek something on which to chew to alleviate the accompanying pain and discomfort. Giving your puppy the appropriate high-quality chew toys or chew treats, such as a frozen rope toy or a rawhide chew toy, will satisfy this need and keep them from chewing up household items.

Training: Housebreaking

At eight weeks old, your puppy is ready to begin housebreaking. If your puppy is on a regular feeding and sleeping schedule, they will likely be housebroken in no time. Plenty of positive reinforcement and a little patience are the only tools you will need.

Although puppies need to go to the bathroom frequently, the most pressing times are after they eat, play and wake up. Take your puppy outside immediately after meals, play times and naps. Every time the puppy goes to the bathroom outside, give an immediate reward of praise and petting.

Try to recognize when your puppy needs to go to the bathroom — watch for signals such as turning in circles — so you can take them outside before they have an accident. The more times you reinforce this behavior and reward it with praise, the sooner the puppy will learn.

Tips on Best Ways to Raise Your 8 Week Old Puppy

•   Start crate training
•   Take him out at least every 3 hours
•   Maintain a housetraining schedule
•   Be patient
•   Get your puppy used to grooming and being touched
•   Feed him 4 times per day
•   Never hit your puppy
•   Give positive reinforcement for work well done
•   Expose your puppy to different noises to minimize fear
•   Socialize!
•   Puppy proof your home
•   Make sure he has an ID tag
•   Provide good chew toys
•   Play with Your Puppy
•   Make sure he gets his vaccines!

Update from the Whelping Box-8 Weeks

Once puppies are born, the week to week development can vary but most newborns stick to the same growing pattern. Unlike human babies, puppies develop quickly within their first two months of life and the changes are so quick that you may miss an important milestone. From the first week to the eighth, you are going see your tiny bundles of joy go from wriggling whimpers to full-blown walking balls of energy.

Here’s our report from the Whelping Box:

We were born April 21st, 2012 and we will be ready to go to our “forever homes” in late June. There are 4 boys and 2 girls and we all love snuggling together in a big “puppy pile.” Our names are Aiden, Brogan, Cora, Finn, Liam, and Éireann. Éireann, Finn, Brogan, Liam and Cora are already “spoken for,” but I (Aiden) am waiting for my  “forever home.” We’re all EIGHT WEEKS OLD now. You might think we haven’t been doing much for these first fifty-six days of our lives, but we’ve been quite busy. Just look!

Here it is, Day 56, and just look at what’s happened:

At this age, your puppy‘s focus is the basic needs of eating, drinking, sleeping, eliminating and playing.  Your puppy can remember which behaviors he is allowed and where and when he is fed. He can even begin house-training and start becoming used to being groomed. He is ready to leave his mother and littermates to go home with you, fully capable of taking his place in the family.
The following list will help you know what to expect from your puppy has he develops.

• How Big?– Most 8-week-old puppies are only a fraction of their adult height, length and weight.  Most puppies will gain or grow rapidly between birth and 6 months of age.  How much they grow or gain will depend on their breed, diet, and ultimate adult size.  Growth is generally steady until they attain their adult size.
• Teething– Puppies at 8 weeks will have all 28 of their baby teeth and may develop their first adult front teeth, called the incisors, between 8 and 12 weeks of age.
• Senses– 8-week-old puppies will show fear, whimper when hurt and bark when excited or wanting attention. You need to build trust with your puppy. Don’t ignore crying but address the cause for the crying with attention and care. Touch is the first sense a dog develops and remains a powerfully important sense throughout his life.  The entire body, including the paws, is covered with touch-sensitive nerve endings.  Although they can see and hear, their sense of vision and hearing is quietly maturing.  They are also developing their general sense of smell.
• Ability to Hold Urine– 8 week old puppies can generally hold their urine for about 3 hours.  This means you will need to take them out at least every 3 hours to get them “housebroken”.
• Intelligence– 8 week old puppies are becoming increasingly curious and interested in the environment.   Although capable of learning, they have a very short attention span.  Keep a variety of simple toys for your puppy to investigate. He will also play rough and tumble with his littermates and will gradually begin learning to play by himself.  It is extremely important that puppies socialize with people at this age.  Include lots of people of varying ages, sizes and shapes to interact positively with your pup. Some puppies have a brief phase of “fear” at this time as they may respond to noises or new objects.  Expose your puppy to new objects and allow them to investigate on their own terms until they are comfortable with the new situation.
• Play & Agility– Most puppies 8 weeks old are “clumsy”.  After all, most puppies just learned to walk at 3 weeks of age and run at 5 weeks of age, which was just a few short weeks ago. They are developing their gross motor skills that help them to run, play, and “hunt”.  Their fine motor skills will come later.  Puppies also learn to jump up at this stage. This is a normal behavior that can turn into an undesirable behavior when the puppy reaches adult-hood and jumps on every visitor. You can begin correcting your puppy and giving him positive reinforcement for good behavior.
• Physical Appearance & Hair Coat– 8-week-old puppies have a baby type hair coat that is very fine and does very little shedding.  Get your puppy used to the brush and comb by gently using them on him for very short sessions that are kept positive.  Don’t hold your puppy down to be brushed or combed if he does not want to be.  Their muzzle is getting longer but overall they have the characteristics of a puppy.  The ears may begin to stand up in some breeds.
• Sleep – Puppies that are 8 weeks old sleep approximately 18 to 22 hours per day.  The rest is spent eating, playing and eliminating.

Well that’s it for this week! Here are some pictures of us from week 1 until today!

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